Ludachris5150 Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 I got a fully loaded FI BL 15" on the way. D 1.4. Going to be ran off a crescendo bc2k so itll hopefully be seeing around 1500-2000 watts. Its going in a 98' explorer. Looking for a sub up port back design. Idk if I should have the port vertical on one of the sides or horizontal on the bottom of the box? Im not looking for numbers or any competition, I want to kill the lows so im looking for a tune of 30-32hz. I definatley want enough port area aswell. I know bkolf said 80-90sq inches of port but he may have recommended that for the 18"... Is there any way you can design me a box with a cutlist joe? Double baffle on top of course Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Did a little research and I'd pry b safer around 4.5 cf after displacements. 32hz is pry a good tune. I jus Dk if one layout of the port will be louder than the other. Also ttrying to get 14-16sq inches of port per ft. If need b I can paypal you some $ for a design. I'd like to get started on it Sunday Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Need some max dimensions to work with. Shoot for 4 cuft net, 32 Hz tune, 50-60 sqin of port. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Here's a suggestion, verify that the given dimensions are suitable, read the notes below the pic: Enclosure Specifications:Fb = 32 HzVb = 4.3 ft^3External Height = 18 inExternal Width = 38 inExternal Depth = 18.75 inPort Width = 4 inCut Sheet List:* All Dimensions in Inches.* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.External Enclosure Parts:2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 38 x 18 3/4Left & Right Sides =Side 1 = 17 1/4 x 15 3/4Side 2 = 18 x 15 3/4Front = 33 1/4 x 15 3/4Back = 38 x 15 3/4L Port Internal Assembly Parts:Front to Back = 13 1/4 x 15 3/4Extension = 10 x 15 3/4 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Important notes:- All boxes built outside the vehicle need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions.- The port needs 3 3/4" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation.- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested. Bracing is 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" wooden dowel rods, any questions let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hell yea, thank you. I'll verify the dimensions by noon today and let you know. Do you think that's enough port area tho? Is it 60sq? Why not go with a 4" port? I'm jus askn, not doubting Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Here's a suggestion, verify that the given dimensions are suitable, read the notes below the pic: Enclosure Specifications:Fb = 32 HzVb = 4.3 ft^3External Height = 19 inExternal Width = 40 inExternal Depth = 17 inPort Width = 3 3/4 inCut Sheet List:* All Dimensions in Inches.* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.External Enclosure Parts:2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 40 x 17Left & Right Sides =Side 1 = 15 1/2 x 16 3/4Side 2 = 16 1/4 x 16 3/4Front = 35 1/2 x 16 3/4Back = 40 x 16 3/4L Port Internal Assembly Parts:Front to Back = 11 3/4 x 16 3/4Extension = 13 x 16 3/4 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Important notes:- All boxes built outside the vehicle need to fit in their way in not just have the right dimensions.- The port needs 3 3/4" of free airspace in front of it for proper operation.- Setting your amp subsonic filter to 28Hz is suggested. Bracing is 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" wooden dowel rods, any questions let me know. My max dimensions are 40" w, 17" H, 26" D. It would be cool if I could keep the width 38" max and go a little deeper on the depth to make up for it. If not I'll pry run with this design, given it has 60sq of port. Idk how to tell? Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Changed it to 38W, port area is 63 square inches about the same as in the previous box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted June 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Changed it to 38W, port area is 63 square inches about the same as in the previous box. Thanks alot for ur help man. SMD needs to give you some sort of prize jus for helpn everyone out. Dope ass member Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Bracing is 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" wooden dowel rods, any questions let me know. what type of wood are the rods? poplar? meh, its too soft. have to predrill to keep from splitting when the screw goes in, a little pressure and the hole will stirp out, and with being so soft it will flex too much to be a logical bracing. oak? have to pre-drill, and even then the screws going into it will still cause it to split if the hole is tight enough for the threads to grab. not much flexing, but being a dense wood it also doesnt take glue all that well, especially in the end grain, where the bonding would take place. basswood? geez, may as well brace it with a twizzler. alder? refer to above... as a cabinet builder of 15 years, i am very interested in discussing the structural intricacies of a 1.25" or 1.5" wooden dowel with you.... Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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