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need ideas for fixing rattle in box


2010gmc

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Here's the thing to try. Take it out of the box, and play it free-air fairly loud (not bottoming out) at the higher frequencies. Mine did it at 70Hz or so.

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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oh my god youre exactly right about lifting the box and it getting worse except only when i has p1 10's, i thought my box was rattling then too but i guess it was the subs, ill try playing them out of the box, that wont hurt them will it?

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just watch the cones carefully when adjusting the volume. You don't want it to bottom out. Other than that it's perfectly fine to play them out of an enclosure. Just now there's nothing to separate the rear wave from the front wave.

2007 Pacifica
Rebuild. Less quiet. Still not loud.

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If you have a smart phone, you can get a free app called Fungen. It's an easy to use function generator you can use to test the drivers at specific frequencies.

And no, you don't have to install another battery but I would at least install a capacitor to help with the lights dimming.

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the p1 is a cheaply built line of subs. more for the people that want to add lows to a stock system. not really good for much of anything besides replacing stock subs or adding it to get the sound a stock sub would give you.

i would see if there is room to upgrade to the p2 subs. if they will fit in the box it will be a much better sounding setup.

imo i would do 2 beefy 8's in sealed boxes or 1 8 in a ported box.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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ok so i went and tested them with one sub out of the box one in, and i hadnt seen your reply about using tones, but i played music and turned it up until the sub in the box was rattling pretty loud, but the sub outside of the enclosure wasnt rattling. im about to go check them again with tones instead of music.

and about the battery question, im pretty sure i have 8 gauge wire from the battery to the amp, would getting 1/0 help a lot? and also i have another spot for a battery under the hood, i was thinking about just getting an additional battery that matches my current one (duralast gold i think). Would that be enough to handle the JL amp, or would i even need that if i had 1/0 from my battery to the amp?

and I had the same idea you did earlier aslaskanzx5, i ordered p2's only to find that they wouldn't fit but the p1's will play the lows pretty well if i roll the windows down. they get almost twice as loud with the windows down, i assume because of the pressure being released.

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big 3 will always help, even a stock car with all stock equipment can gain from the big 3

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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With 8 gauge and 500 watts you're at the threshold of overloading the wire now, even if the run is relatively short. Upgrade that to 0 and you'll be better off and for sure, do the big three with the 8 gauge.

Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc

Instagram: audioanarchyllc

Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe

aaresizehorizontal_zps47821bb2.jpg

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