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The reason Im afraid to upgrade it for the fact that when my system does hit decently hard my lights flicker. I dont know if I have a capacitor installed because when i paid a professional to install everything back then I told them to give me everything a need. Don't want to seem like a complete noob but what it this thing??? is it a capacitor and if I wanted to installed a capacitor where would I installed it? do it attach to this thing with the fuse in it. The installer used pretty much all rockford fosgate stuff..

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thats your fuse holder, and dont wast your money on a cap. You can upgrade to the fi subs now and upgrade your amp and electrical later on

Used to have a loud truck

2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq

2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s

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That is a fuse holder i suppose in engine bay. If you have a capacitor then it has to be in the trunk somewhere near amplifier/s.

What car do you have? Any upgrades to electrical system? Maybe a bad connectos install by that specialist?

Sorry for double posting i dont know how that happen.

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theres not problem with the "fuse holder" just wanted to know what it was and if that is where the capacitor is installed... is the capacitor easy to install yourself??? Also someone said I could upgrade the Fi 10s now... but wouldnt they be severely underpowered with the 500watt monoblock??? I dont see how a capacitor is a waste if it is going to keep my lights from flickering, when they flicker it looks shitty as hell at traffic lights.

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splicing and crimping is nothing to me .. i was in the marines for 5 years working on F/A 18 electronics before now...

It seems like everyone is recommending these Fi 10s... ive never heard on them before ... everyone around here like i said before preaches hcca orion 10s... but they are way to expensive

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Whats a good size capacitor to get??? Currently Im running 4 Infinity Reference 6022i 2-Way 6.5" Car Speakers with Kenwood KAC-6404 amplifier and 2 JL audio 10w1v2-4 with a Alpine MRP-M500 amp. My deck is the AVH-P3300BT and I also have Xtreme Digital HID Conversion Kits With Philips Bulbs if that matters. Also would it be bad to put 1 Fi x10 in place of the jl sub going back or would that be a bad idea???

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I'd say it's probably not the best of ideas to mix em like that... the best best would be to resolder that lead on the jl so it'll work and sell box and subs on Craig's list. and put that money toward the SQubed or Fi subs. and run legit with two matching... if you wanted to run one sub I'd go with a single fifteen... I know there are a few available that are rms 500 watts and may be available down to 2 ohms for a single or double voice coil... the 15s have double more cone area per sub than two tens so they will move a lil more air... just another tidbit if info and you might spend a little less in wood and speaker purchases. just a thought. cheers. and welcome to the forum!

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Growing old is necessary... growing up is an option! Have fun or you might as well fall into a 6 foot deep hole. Its much easier to be smart and act stupid then it is to be stupid and act smart! You're only limited by your imagination! Stop limiting yourself! Optima yellow top6 guage cableJVC KD S36 headunitPower acoustik 1600w 750w rms @2 ohmsTwo MTX thunder 7000 10"sSealed box @4.04 ft^3Mojo Mat in the trunk Coming soon:1/0 awg cablebig 3... in 6 gauge(till i can get the money for 0)planet audio Crossover.2- 3.5's for the front.2- 6.5's for the doors2- 6x9's for the rear3- MB Quartz amps to power it all.1- 6" aeroport...soon! <p>My Log!

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