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Found 16 results

  1. Remember the Bucket o' Bass series? Its on Steve Meades channel. In the video he uses four DC Audio Level ones. I decided it was a good idea and built the box and used those subs. My box design is dead near-perfect, my amp has plenty of power, and the subs are high quality. My only problem is during the test bump, I blew one of the subs! I don't know how. The subwoofers were NOT reaching anywhere near xmax, even on the extreme lows. The subs weren't even really being pushed. They were slightly over powered, but I didn't even turn the volume up that far. It was at 9 tonight. I just don't understand what I did wrong. I'm super new to this, but I'm pretty sure I did everything right. Help me! Shit I'm using: QCA4000d: 2000w rms Quantum Audio Amp. (4) DC Audio Level 1 12s Homemade enclosure 01' silverado
  2. I was running subs today at about 1/2 volume of max . My system has been tuned with the dd1. No eq or bass boost everything set flat and 0. Today with volume lower then usual... I heard a noise that was a loud buzz sound and then it sounded like a slinky hitting a wall. I immediately pulled over and the sub was still playing just not as loud. I pushed on the front and I can feel the coil rubbing. The sub was not hot or overheating. I had an old JL audio blow before but it usually would be super hot and have dust/smoke coming out the holes. This sub is a newer w3v3 that I have had for less then a year and purchased as a pair. The other is completely fine. When I put the multimeter on it, it read open but when I move it, it jumps around in Ohms alot. Could someone enlighten me or what may of happen? Is it blown or did the suspension go on it?? I plan to get it repaired by JL because they charged a flat rate repair of $150 on w3v3s. Both tinsel leads look perfectly fine and the spyder is untouched. From within the cone I can feel the whole shape of the coil pressing forward.
  3. Amp is a Sundown SAE-1200d v2 . Has worked perfectly since purchase. Cranked it louder than usual a couple days ago; all of a sudden, there was no output. At first I assumed I blew the Navone LOC that interfaces with the BMW Logic7 amp, as the LOC is rated for only 50watts of input, and I think the Logic7 can send up to 70 watts to the channels (midbass) that it interfaces with. Before replacing the LOC, the blue led was illuminated on the remote knob. After replacing the LOC, the blue led does not illuminate. After installing the new LOC, I hooked it up to a home theater subwoofer and verified that it is working and producing signal. I also verified with my multimeter that the remote turn on signal the LOC generates was present. At this point I determined the LOC was not the culprit. Next, I checked my voltage downstream of my in-line 120amp fuse, which was 12.4x volts, so it seems my fuse is intact. I then checked the 5x30amp fuses on the amp, all of which showed continuity with my multimeter. Next, I checked my ground, which was intact. Last, I checked the sub and verified the impedance of both 1 ohm voice coils, as well as the speaker wire connection between the sub/amp. Here is the current state of things: When the ignition is switched on, the green "Power" led is illuminated on the amp, while the blue led on the remote knob does not illuminate. If I remove the remote turn on wire from the amp, the power led does not illuminate. At this point I am guessing that something inconspicuous went wrong inside the amp. Here are some pics of the guts. The FETs and capacitors all LOOK ok to me, so I am totally stumped at this point. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I have a multimeter, a basic understanding of circuits, and basic soldering skills. Thanks for any input.
  4. In search of a DD 3500 12 sub, preferably blown because i need a second one that im going to powder coat and do a custom recone. Needs to match this.
  5. So I blew my Alpine SWR 12D2 subwoofer 5th Gen. I took it apart only to find that the former of the voice granaded so the voice coil came unwound in the motor so I have no choice but to take the basket apart and the magnets out to collect the unwound coil wire. It appears that Alpine made these subs to be unserviceable ( at least unfriendly) due to all of the glue around the top plate above the magnets. I can see a ton of glue underneath as well. My question is can I burn all of the glue with a torch to get it to release? I tried using a chisel to knock it clockwise but it wont budge and it's cutting a groove into the plate. It appears that the security plate will then just come right out. I'm not going to just toss it. Thanks! PS. If this has already been covered please don't burn me, just point me in the right direction...
  6. yesterday i smoked one of the aq 2200. its been working fine for years i guess .5 ohms finally killed her i had two of them strapped at 1 ohm the other one i think is still good does anyone know a place that repairs amps? bc i want to get ready for va tdh show next month
  7. Hi, I recently purchased a used Rockford t0 15" off of eBay and the coils on it are black as black can be. The resistance is about normal as it is a dual 4 ohm sub and sits at 7.4 to 7.6 (I believe it was) at 8 ohms, and 2.2 at 2 ohms. The subwoofer is pretty stiff but does move without any scratchy noise/feeling. Is the sub perfectly fine? Are these coils different than others(black)? The previous owner claims that he ran the sub with a Hifonics Brutus amplifier, 1100 watts at 1 ohm, which is 800 at 2 ohms in a prefab ported box. The sub has a rated 800 watts rms. Any input at all would be greatly appreciated!!
  8. Looking for Level 4 M1 motors or blown subs. Any size is fine if basket and sub are attached. Looking to pay about 100iish each and I will cover shipping. Please send me a pm if you have any for sale. Thanks. Looking for 2. Must be M1 model. ( single hole in motor )
  9. Pretty self explanatory question, but hopefully one I won't be crucified for asking. Is it possible, or even likely, to have coil rub in a subwoofer at certain frequencies and not at others, or possible to have coil rub only during some songs and not others? I'm asking because I'm chasing my butt on an intermittent noise coming from my hatch. Certain songs, almost regardless of volume, I can hear a rattling noise almost like coil rub. I've gone back there and gently pushed on the subwoofer's cone, and it's silent. I've tapped on everything back there with my hand, and can't hear anything obviously making noise. IF this sub is shot and needs to be replaced, so be it, but it perplexes the Hell out of me that I'd have coil rub sometimes and not at others. Regardless of the noise, it's an Image Dynamics ID8d4 in a sealed fiberglass stealthbox at roughly 0.3 cu ft. (within manufacturer's recomended range) and it seams to be working fine. I'm just trying to rule out coil rub so I can concentrate on chasing loose trim panels for rattles.
  10. Does anyone know of a good place to repair an amp? The amp is an oldschool PPI pc21400 that my dad used back in the day. There's a few transistors and resistors burnt with a small part of the board being charcoal black. Is it even possible to fix it? I've gone to the cheap shops on 11th street in downtown L.A. and nobody wants to lay hands on it. Is it worth fixing? Can it be fixed? How much should it cost? Should try toI sell it?
  11. Hey, i was wondering what these two things here are, they guy who was gonna repair it didn't know... (He's a radio repair guy..) In advance, thanks to anyone who can help.
  12. Does anyone have any suggestions of what to do with a few old subs. they are cheap and the surrounds and cones are all good but the coils are fried in each one. They are not worth re-coiling so i was wondering if there are any creative uses for them that anyone has come up with.
  13. I'm looking at buying a dc audio level 5 15 from a friend that is blown. Has anybody used the dropping hz recone kit? or have experience reconeing this particular or other dc sub? How good is performance after rebuild, also what is the difference in performance with the different spider options?
  14. So I have a zv3 12 now. Im upgrading parts to a 15" zv4 frame, zv4 spl soft parts/zv4 coil, and night shade spider. Im only keeping the zv3 motor. I am looking for a zv3, any size, 10 through 18. I just need the motor, also if its blown or working, i still want it. Id rather get a blown one for the price difference though. If you have a blown zv3 or know anyone with even just a zv3 motor, let me know. Thanks guys
  15. I have 2 JL audio 10w1v2-4 and one of them just stopped working. Before I took it out of the box it was reading open. Once I took it out of the box to read the terminals, without touching the tinsel leads its reads 4.8 ohms. My good sub reads 4.5, I imagine since I have a cheapo multimeter that is why its reading above 4 instead of under like most. I noticed if i move the tinsel leads on the positive side just a tad it easily goes from reading open to over 100 ohms. Is this easy to fix or am I better off getting a replacement sub? Everyone I talked to said it looked as though it was blown but my settings for my system havent changed since I bought the subs nearly 6 years ago. Another person suggested I resolder the tinsel joints but it looks as though only the terminal joints are soldered. The area were the tinsel reads open isn't the terminal joint. Ill take a photo to show u. The side reading open is the pic where the main terminal isn't visible. Both pics are for the same strand of tinsel just showing where it enters and exits. Thanks for the help.
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