Think I figured out wiring I need - input is appreciated!

[BboyTaktix]

Okay so this weekend I got the chance to install the front JBL p660c components in my subaru STI, they are running off the pioneer head unit currently until I order all wiring needed for my install. Also need to buy some rear door speakers too, decided on the JBL P662 since they are pretty much the same as my P660c components but they are 2-way.

Now, as for the wiring, I figured that since I will eventually be installing my mono amp and a sub (stage 2 of my build) I might as well order the necessary install gear right away and run the wiring once. Now I don't want to do any alternator upgrades or second battery, and don't want to spend tons of money, since I have almost everything already except for rear speakers and the sub (selling my 2 12'' subs, take up too much space).

I figured the best thing to do is to go with 1/0-gauge wire (with 200A in-line fuse at battery) from under the hood to the trunk where there will be a distribution block with two ANL fuses (one 80-A for my 4-channel amp and one 125-A or 150-A for my mono amp) Then from the distr. block, 4-gauge wire to my 4-channel amp. When I get the sub, I will wire my amp straight to the distr. block where the 125 or 150A fuse is. I think this is the best way for me to go and allows me to get the most out of my equipment without breaking the bank.

Also, I have a 3-farad capacitor that I could install between my distr. block and mono amp; although many of you say it's just a band-aid, I already have it, will it be beneficial in any way to install it or should I just forget about it?

A little info on the equipment;

-4-channel amp is a JBL GTO1004 (150RMSx4 at 2-ohms), suggested fusing is 80A on power wire

-Mono amp is Clarion DPX11551 (1550RMS at 2-ohm, suggested to use a 250A fuse on power wire but I find this to be excessive and doubt I'll be using the full RMS anyway since my car cannot provide all that power)

-Sub (not yet purchased) looking at a JBL W10GTI (I want a very clean SQ system that has some good bump and can get decently low) 600wRMS' heard they can handle more than double that for long periods of time....I think feeding it 800-1000RMS would be more than sufficient.

I'll also do the alternator wires in 1/0 gauge since I'm already ordering the 1/0-gauge wire.

Just want to make sure I'm all set before placing the order with knukonceptz. Input is appreciated. Again, not changing out the alternator and would like to avoid getting a second battery. I don't do full tilt very often either, mostly half volume or less daily driving but like to turn it up once and a while.

thanks for your help/input!!

[Joshex]

Sounds like you got it all figured out.

[BboyTaktix]

Sounds like you got it all figured out.

awesome, thanks, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything and my fusing logic/usage is correct.

Also, any input on whether to use my cap or not is appreciated.

Anybody have experience with the W10GTI subs? Debating building a ported or sealed enclosure, as I have limited space that I want to use in my trunk (I want to be able to open at least one of the two back seats to pass skis/snowboard through) thanks!

[Joshex]

I have no experience with caps or JBL subs, so I can't answer that. But many people are going to ask your trunk space (or space where you box will go) and you will have to go from there. Would you like more SPL or SQ out of your build. Would you want it to sound better or get louder?

[Agreene]

hey man good to see another member throwing a system into a Subaru...

everything looks good.

for the sub you could probably run that all the way down to 20 hertz and all the way up to ~200 I've here'd one in action before in a older guys car around here sounded nice really didn't have much boom but it was nice and crisp. almost like a good extra mid bass punch.

[BboyTaktix]

I have no experience with caps or JBL subs, so I can't answer that. But many people are going to ask your trunk space (or space where you box will go) and you will have to go from there. Would you like more SPL or SQ out of your build. Would you want it to sound better or get louder?

I will get measurements of the space I have tonight, but using the measurements of my car's trunk I got online, I am estimating I have around 1.2-1.4 cubes max. Above all, this is an SQ build, I would like it to get reasonably loud and hit reasonably low as well if possible. I will get exact measurements tonight of the space I want to use, I feel like that will be the determining factor. If I have enough room I think ported would be a good idea but again it's hard to tell, I may be more than happy with a sealed box with this sub, but nobody I know has this sub or can say how well it performs sealed vs ported.

[BboyTaktix]

hey man good to see another member throwing a system into a Subaru...

everything looks good.

for the sub you could probably run that all the way down to 20 hertz and all the way up to ~200 I've here'd one in action before in a older guys car around here sounded nice really didn't have much boom but it was nice and crisp. almost like a good extra mid bass punch.

cool, thanks for the input man! I've heard these subs are awesome, and that the `boom`you get kind of depends on the box. Was the one you heard in a sealed or ported box? I guess I'm kinda getting past the low frequency BOOM sound and like the hard hits with a little low frequency here and there. I don't need to rattle screws out of the car because as you know, subies already rattle enough on their own

[Joshex]

Well if you are wanting it louder you will have to go port, but like you said that is up to the room that you have.

[BboyTaktix]

damn I really wish I could hear one of these subs sealed and then ported to make my decision easier lol. I've seen these in bigger ported boxes shaking car roofs, don't need that but the question is will the sound be sufficient if I go sealed?

Also would it be beneficial to go with say a 1.3-1.4 cu ft ported box over a sealed box even if they suggest a 1.75cu ft box in their manual? I know sometimes the companies make general suggestions for box size that aren't always optimal for the sub.

[Agreene]

hey man good to see another member throwing a system into a Subaru...

everything looks good.

for the sub you could probably run that all the way down to 20 hertz and all the way up to ~200 I've here'd one in action before in a older guys car around here sounded nice really didn't have much boom but it was nice and crisp. almost like a good extra mid bass punch.

cool, thanks for the input man! I've heard these subs are awesome, and that the `boom`you get kind of depends on the box. Was the one you heard in a sealed or ported box? I guess I'm kinda getting past the low frequency BOOM sound and like the hard hits with a little low frequency here and there. I don't need to rattle screws out of the car because as you know, subies already rattle enough on their own

it was sealed and im pretty sure he had it at 6 ohms on like 200 watts, it sounded nice,

for sound quality sealed is probably your best friend however if your not so tied up ported will give you the boom when you want it.

and just throwing in a option.. you can look at

a DAD BD 10' ... not a comlete sq woofer but it DOES sound great. id say there SQL. what you want right ?

http://showtimecaraudio.net/shop/10/2000-watt-peak-10-high-performance-sub-d2-bd-10d2/