dolarbilz Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Try pulling remote wire out of amp..jump small wire from positive of amp to remote turn it on then remove jumper wire.see if amp still dose it.if so maybe amp has a internal issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 That's what I'll do tomorrow before work. Will report back. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dolarbilz Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Trouble shooting sucks.lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Sure does. I'm brain dead this week too. We had paid a company to come in at work and configure and deploy new network equipment on Monday. Well they didn't configure it right and it didn't work. Well basically the said screw yourself. So I've spent the last week fixing the configs and figuring out what they didn't do. Mean while taking a crash course in routing because that's not my thing.... Lol. I couldn't troubleshoot a potato right now. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pioneerforlife Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 does it pop louder depending on what the volume was set at. like is the pop louder at 60% volume compared to 20%? 2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback Pioneer HU 4 Digital Designs 9515i's in a B pillar. 2 Soundstream XXX 15K's (running at 16 volts) Soundstream Mids/Highs in custom door panels (getting rebuilt soon) Soundstream TA2.160 and TA2.400 Sky High and KNU wiring 3 Banks of Maxwell caps Winston Lithium (not a fan) Bump4Life 250 Amp Alt. aka USAlternators Soundstream Focus and Avenger Build Log Instagram @p4linnovation YouTube: Team Blowin Loud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandonbkd Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 When exactly did they start doing that? FI BL18 Build Log: CLICK HERE!! 2003 Explorer Sport: FI BL18 SoundQubed 2200 at 0.7ohm Pioneer DEH-2500UI Pioneer 6 x 8s Rockford Fosgate 6 x 9s 5 ft^3 box at 35hz Lots of Mega Mat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 I think I have my sequencing right so let me try to get it right: Usually the pop happens because the amps have something up stream that turn off before they do. So- you said you don't have an EQ or anything between the head unit and amps.... leaving only the head unit.IF you have your head unit OFF and just put a jumper wire from positive 12 volts and remote turn on to your amps (unplug your current ones) do you still get turn on and turn off pop? If you do, then it is the amp. If you don't, then your head unit is turning off before the amps turn off. That leaves a signal or power across your rcas and when the amps go off- pop. I have different brands of amps, processors and eqs. What that means is that I had timing issues with turn on and turn off delay as well as a pop or thud. I found some processors that had both turn on and turn off delay. The processors stay on for like 10 seconds after the head unit goes off and isolates the equipment. Then the turn off time can be adjusted for different equipment. So- amps go off first (quiet) and then the eq's go off second where they can't put any noise into the amps before shut down.So saying all of that: hook up a proper relay between your head unit's remote wire and your amps, check the ground on your head unit, you MAY want to get a 12 volt noise filter for the remote wire too. Test what is making the pop- the amps or the HU. 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 It appears that the pop is in the amp. I turned the car off. Unhooked the remote, then I jumped the remote from 12v and it did the same thing. So I'm just blaming it on the hifonics amp having a hard shutoff. As for the four channel. I will test it later. It may just be getting old. Its done it since I've installed it. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knowledge Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 a relay wont fix the problem in most cases. REFF'SMy linkEBAYhttp://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=trueI love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted August 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 I've played with it more, it seems like the hifonics amp is the only one that will "pop" per-say.. The Alpine sounds like the amp turning off. Not a pop, but a lot like when you unplug a microphone. Just really really quiet. That disconnection sound. Honestly neither sounds are loud at all, they are both fairly quiet. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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