SnowDrifter Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 There are a lot of videos and everyone says something different about a parallel run, things I've heard are 1) Instant drain on both batteries. 2) Overcharging. 3) Shortened lifespan. 4) You'll be just fine. 5) The batteries will equal each others voltage out possibly blowing in-line fuses. 6) Higher strain on the alternator. I haven't tested it myself, yeah it is another expense true but if you have very dissimilar batteries, I would not run straight parallel. Try to match up your specs as closely as possible on your batteries. I'm really debating whether or not to just try it instead of using a relay, but I may buy another battery, I work at Batteries Plus, but regardless I have to wait for my 1/0 cable to come in. If you have dissimilar batteries (flooded and agm) I wouldn't run them together at all. In car audio, your batteries should all be AGM and in good condition. So assuming that's the case, I'll address the various points 1. Wouldn't happen without a load. Simply connecting things in parallel doesn't cause an instant drain on both batteries. Exception being if there's a dead cell/bad battery, in which case it would drain the good battery down to match the bad battery. This is an issue with the battery and should be fixed, not bandaided with an isolator. 2. Ohms law. Can't happen. Only way it would overcharge is if you are using a crappy battery charger or if your alt is charging too high. None of which an isolator would fix. 3. Shortened lifespan. Would only happen if you have a parasitic draw, in which case it's a pretty simple process to track down. Fix the issue. Cheaper and easier than using an isolator or a relay. If you don't fix the issue, regardless of using a relay or not, you'll kill your batteries AND your alt 4. Yes 5. Batteries have some internal resistance. So does your wires running from one battery to another. Voltage equalization isn't instantaneous. Provided you have adequate wiring and properly sized fuses, they wouldn't blow even if you hooked up a flat dead battery to a fully charged one. 6. Won't happen unless you have dead batteries. See #3 about parasitic draw ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gally Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 offtopic...but it like how you have a video with porn music in it 2010 Chevrolet Cruze Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5" Sub Control --- Pac LC1 Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1 Battery - GZBP 12.2500X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Check out juicebox. Some very good sales going on right now for some pretty legit performing batteries Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Hey thanks SnowDrifter for clearing that up. I know a relay won't fix all the issues, just isolates to prevent your start battery from drain. But I do believe the Bi-Mart battery is a Flooded Cell. I have a flooded cell should I get a new starter battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Alright guys, got another quote from mechman. A little more info this time, here's what he said: "Those vehicles have a pretty low idle speed, and a relatively small crank pulley, so I generally recommend the 170 amp if you want really good output below 800 engine RPM. The other issue, is that the Subaru only has a 5 groove belt driving the alternator, that tends to start slipping past about 200 amps worth of load, so belt slip can be an issue with the 240 amp unit. We offer a 320 amp unit, but it will pretty much slip the belt all the time. Both units are pretty much indestructible, even in hot climates. All of the Billet-Tech series units feature our twin heavy duty internal rectifiers, oversize charge post, billet aluminum overdrive pulley, hairpin stator, and 12 massive diodes. We include a 10 YEAR warranty, and a 1/0 gauge cable connection with every unit. We offer a 320 amp unit, but it will pretty much slip the belt all the time. These units are carved out of a solid chunk of T6061 Billet Aluminum, so they look awesome on top of the engine. Like all of our units, it is 100% made in the USA. These units are stable to 20,000 rpm shaft speed, making them an excellent choice for high performance as well. 170 amp 300 rpm turn on 500 rpm - 120 amps 800 rpm - 150 amp 1200 rpm – 170 amps $549 240 amp 500 rpm turn on 650 rpm - 100 amps 800 rpm - 140 amps 1500 rpm - 240 amps $599 Matthew Young (865)522-6166 1-888-MECHMAN [email protected] www.mechman.com www.billetalternator.com www.trucktoughalternators.com" Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 You can adjust your idle speed at the throttle body, but I would highly advise not to. Slowly adjust to 500 RPM and go for that alt if you would like to since it isn't that much more. 170 amps is pretty good too, it couldn't handle a huge system though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Always shop around. Check Excessive Amperage, Ohio Generators, Singer Alternators, or DC Power. I won't give you my biased suggestions but always search and research. You can make an informed decision when you better know what options are available. You could still just get a smaller amp and then get a proper battery Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Well check this out guys! https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?make=Subaru&model=Impreza&year=1999&engine=2.2L+H4 Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Hey thanks SnowDrifter for clearing that up. I know a relay won't fix all the issues, just isolates to prevent your start battery from drain. But I do believe the Bi-Mart battery is a Flooded Cell. I have a flooded cell should I get a new starter battery? I'd suggest it. You generally want all the batteries installed in your vehicle to be AGM. Flooded batts tend to rest around 12.7-12.8 when fully charges, AGMs are around 13-13.1. What that means is with the car off, your front(flooded) battery will leach power out of your rear(agm) batteries. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Well check this out guys! https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-output-alternators.html?make=Subaru&model=Impreza&year=1999&engine=2.2L+H4 I have the 270. Beast unit for sure. Got 215 amps at idle from mine. TBH I'd suggest looking at the 180 amp unit for your needs, if budget allows. I have a buddy with one (Nikitaaa on SMD) Not sure what your plans are but it should be adequate for running somewhere in the 3-4k neighborhood. My 270 slipped all the time until I got some belt wrap. See pic below ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.