SnowDrifter Posted September 5, 2013 Report Posted September 5, 2013 Why the need for electrical tape? Just strip them to the length needed and put them in the terminal. Having bare wire sticking out doesn't gain you much ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Golitan11 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Posted September 6, 2013 No I did this because both wires were not fitting in the terminal together. Those KnuKonceptz 12 gauge are huge...
SnowDrifter Posted September 6, 2013 Report Posted September 6, 2013 Ahh gotcha What you do in that case is get a box cutter or some wire strippers, trim a fair bit of strands off the wire, then twist them together and it will fit. Or you can use a small distribution block. Or throw some ring terminals on the wire, attach the terminals to a bolt on the inside of the box, and wire the same bolt on the outside of the box ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
Golitan11 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Posted September 6, 2013 All right, when I will need to get the sub off the box in the future I will do so. But for now is it ok to keep them like this?
Jonathan Tyler Ecton-Rodriguez Posted September 6, 2013 Report Posted September 6, 2013 All right, when I will need to get the sub off the box in the future I will do so. But for now is it ok to keep them like this? yes lol i had 2 8awg stripped and wired like that in my L7's haha its fine
bkolfo4 Posted September 6, 2013 Report Posted September 6, 2013 Those jumpers only get half the current of the wire between the sub and amp, and they are very short (only applies to parallel wiring like your pic. A series jumper would have the same current as the positive and negative).. Smaller wire is fine there if you redo it. 12 ga to the sub, 16 ga between terminals. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
N9neMillahhh Posted September 6, 2013 Report Posted September 6, 2013 if my wire's too big for the terminals, i usually solder the wires together, make a big solid chunk of metal, and use pliers and a hammer to kind of "condense" and "pack" the size smaller and circular so they fit, works majority of the time. i made two 10 AWG wires soldered look like a sinlge 12 AWG. thats what i usually do. i always use SHCA 12 AWG so it works great anyway. i've even seen people use dual input lookin things like they use on amps but for the terminals. 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX
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