N9neMillahhh Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 No the voltage seems like it has nothing to do with it, it seriously seems like there's something loose somewhere. But I checked everything multiple times. When it's working, it can hit and play all notes and music fine, it's not like it hits a low note, voltage drops and it cuts out due to that, it's like i hit a bump and something loses a connection. 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9neMillahhh Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'll check on the remote again quick. And it's hardly warm at all, almost cold. 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Give me numbers ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 If hitting a bump is causing it and nothing else, it could certainly be that something is loose. It could even be internally which would suck. But like he said, numbers would be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9neMillahhh Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 One sex. 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9neMillahhh Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Sec. Dammit. Lol one second 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 So I am reading the manual to the amp and it makes it seem like this is the case: Overheating - Shuts down amplifier Short Circuit/Internal Amplifier Fault - Shuts down amplifier and protect LED illuminates So I wouldn't completely rule out overheating/vDrop. It does not say it will illuminate the LED if it overheats. Here is the section I am talking about: TROUBLESHOOTING A SYSTEM 1 1 The key to finding the problem in a misbehaving sound system is to isolate parts of that system in a logical fashion to track down the fault. Description of the Diagnostic system built into all HIFONICS amplifiers The diagnostic system will shut down the amplifier , until reset by turning the head unit of f, and back on. This state of af fairs will be indicated by the front panel PROTECT LED lighting up under the following conditions: 1 - A sort circuit on the loudspeaker leads. 2 - An internal amplifier fault that causes a DC of fset on the loudspeaker output. Should the amplifier go into diagnostic mode, simply disconnect all RCA and speaker leads, while keeping +12 volt, power ground and remote leads connected. 1. Now turn the amplifier back on, and if the diagnostic LED lights, the amplifier has an internal fault. 2. If not, plug the RCA cables back, and reset the amplifier . If it goes into diagnostic now , the fault lies in the input, either with bad cables or source unit. 3. If the amplifier seems ok with RCA cables plugged in, connect the speakers, one at a time, and if one of speaker or its wiring is faulty , it will activate the diagnostic system. 4. If the amplifier is still in Protection mode after the above steps, remove all RCA ’ s and wires from the amplifier . T ake a 12” length of speaker wire, trim the plastic of f of each end exposing the wire. Now connect one end of the wire to the12V+ on the amplifier and connect the other to the Ground on the amplifier . Y ou will have a brief spark indicating that the Capacitors have been discharged and the drivercard has been reset. Remove the jumper wire and reconnect your Power , Ground and Remote wires. Attempt to power the amplifier up like normal. In some cases this can Reset the amplifier if permanent damage has not previously been done. Amplifier heatsink overheating The amplifiers will shut down when the heatsink temperature reaches 80 degrees centigrade, and turn back on once the unit has cooled down below that point. Causes of overheating: 1 - Inadequate cooling - relocate or remount to provide better natural airflow over the fins. 2 - Driving high power levels into low impedances - back of f on the volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the amplifier with less than the recommended loudspeaker impedance. 3 - Excessive voltage drop can also cause overheating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9neMillahhh Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Tried my hardest to understand tht but couldn't....numbers! Battery-13.9 Amp+/-=6.3!?! Amp+/ground location=6!!!?!?!? Weird thing is though, I did the remote and the ground, an it read 13? The hell did I do wrong? 02 Lexus IS300 (2JZ FTW) Mids/Highs: JL Audio C5 6.5s all around Mids/Highs Amp: JL Audio HD 600/4 Subs: four SA-8v2s in 3.8cubes @ 32hz Sub Amps: SAZ3k Battery: Huge Interstate Batteries relocated to trunk About 80ft. of 1/0 OFC.... Head Unit: Pioneer 4200NEX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEKINGsBACK Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Loose fuse somewhere or connection on positive line he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Here is the link to the manual, Go to page 13, sorry the formatting got all fucked http://www.hifonics.com/current_manuals/hifonics_brx_amplifier_manual.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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