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How to make sure my electrical system can handle 6000 watts, 4 questions ***ADDED PICS ON PAGE 4***


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Do what? This wasn't so much about fuses, and I had a roll that only said 0 ga, and a roll that said 1/0 and the second is much larger, so for 2 2500 watt amps that are roughly 90% efficient, would I want to use 2 runs? There will be 2 fuses on each run, and a fuse between the second battery and the amps. So would that support the 6000 watts even if it is cca, I'm on a fairly tight budget, but I'd rather use more fuses than less fuses. So does anyone have any input for as to why the thread was created? Lol

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Trying to guess the SPL of a system with out a meter is like trying to guess how much air pressure is in a compressor tank just by letting some of the air out.

...Seems like 90 psi...

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What car do u have? If u have enough space in the engine compartment I would suggest u just get a dual alt kit andbput ur stock alt back on along with that mechman..u can separate your charging systems. Connect the mechman fused straight to the back batteries and leave the stock connected to I that wet battery in the front..I overthought my electrical wiring and equipment too because I want to put in a bc5500d amp and two other high amps.but well see if my plan works

You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries

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Do what? This wasn't so much about fuses, and I had a roll that only said 0 ga, and a roll that said 1/0 and the second is much larger, so for 2 2500 watt amps that are roughly 90% efficient, would I want to use 2 runs? There will be 2 fuses on each run, and a fuse between the second battery and the amps. So would that support the 6000 watts even if it is cca, I'm on a fairly tight budget, but I'd rather use more fuses than less fuses. So does anyone have any input for as to why the thread was created? Lol

2 runs of CCA wouldnt be enough.

Go by the figures.

Current draw would be upwards of about 650A total.

A single run of 1/0 awg CCA can carry about 250A.

A single run of 1/0 awg OFC can carry about 350A.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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Here are pics of my current wiring.

IMAG0181.jpg

IMAG0180.jpg

IMAG0182.jpg

I am currently running 1 line of the blue wire from the stock battery under my hood to a stinger SPV44 in the trunk, then that is connected to the 2nd SPV44 and then that goes to the 1 kicker zx2500 and dx400.4 im currently running, there are 2 300A fuses on the run between battery 1 under the hood and battery 2, the first SPV44. Each fuse is within 1 foot of the battery on both ends.

The blue wire, on the spool it said 0 AWG, and the red wire says 1/0 CCA AWG. The blue wire does not have the AWG or if it is OFC or CCA written on the wire.

Here are my final questions.

1) So since I already have the 1 run of the blue already in place, can I just add the 2 more runs of the red wire? will 1 of the 3 runs being different size wire have any negative effects?

2) Would it be ok to run one size fuse on the blue wire, and then a different size fuse on the 2 runs of the red wire since its all just running between 2 positive terminals between the 2 XS Power d3100's I plan to get soon?

3) Would it be ok to run an XS Power d3100 under the hood, an XS Power d3100 in the back, and run both of the Stinger SPV44's in the back along with the 2nd D3100 just for a little extra power reserve? Would I see any positive or negative effects if I ran them with both of the 3100's? Or should I just take out the SPV44's all together once I get the D3100's

4) Since I will be running 3 runs of power wire from hood to trunk, Should I put 3 ground wires off the rear batterie(s) to the frame, or should I put 4? And if I put 3 or 4 grounds from the rear battery to the frame, wouldn't I also need to put the same amount of grounds from the frame to the negative post on the battery under the hood to allow the best transfer of power?

Thanks for all of the input everyone! I'm ready to make this system the absolute best I can and all of the advice/answers shared with me will be used budget allowing lol.

My Youtube Channel

Trying to guess the SPL of a system with out a meter is like trying to guess how much air pressure is in a compressor tank just by letting some of the air out.

...Seems like 90 psi...

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Share on other sites

Here are pics of my current wiring.

IMAG0181.jpg

IMAG0180.jpg

IMAG0182.jpg

I am currently running 1 line of the blue wire from the stock battery under my hood to a stinger SPV44 in the trunk, then that is connected to the 2nd SPV44 and then that goes to the 1 kicker zx2500 and dx400.4 im currently running, there are 2 300A fuses on the run between battery 1 under the hood and battery 2, the first SPV44. Each fuse is within 1 foot of the battery on both ends.

The blue wire, on the spool it said 0 AWG, and the red wire says 1/0 CCA AWG. The blue wire does not have the AWG or if it is OFC or CCA written on the wire.

Here are my final questions.

1) So since I already have the 1 run of the blue already in place, can I just add the 2 more runs of the red wire? will 1 of the 3 runs being different size wire have any negative effects?

2) Would it be ok to run one size fuse on the blue wire, and then a different size fuse on the 2 runs of the red wire since its all just running between 2 positive terminals between the 2 XS Power d3100's I plan to get soon?

3) Would it be ok to run an XS Power d3100 under the hood, an XS Power d3100 in the back, and run both of the Stinger SPV44's in the back along with the 2nd D3100 just for a little extra power reserve? Would I see any positive or negative effects if I ran them with both of the 3100's? Or should I just take out the SPV44's all together once I get the D3100's

4) Since I will be running 3 runs of power wire from hood to trunk, Should I put 3 ground wires off the rear batterie(s) to the frame, or should I put 4? And if I put 3 or 4 grounds from the rear battery to the frame, wouldn't I also need to put the same amount of grounds from the frame to the negative post on the battery under the hood to allow the best transfer of power?

Thanks for all of the input everyone! I'm ready to make this system the absolute best I can and all of the advice/answers shared with me will be used budget allowing lol.

That blue wire is a bit of a ruse. It's a cheap version of 0awg and actually not truly 0awg. They use a thicker jacket to make it appear larger.

So lets add some answers.

1. Yes you can add more runs of any size. No different sizes will not have any ill effects.

2. Different size fuses are OK. As long as they are within limits for the wire they are used on. I suggest 250A fuses on the red wire.

3. You can use the Stingers with the D3100s and have more capacity. Though the more batteries you do have, the more energy it takes to charge them and keep them charged. So your alternator may work better if there were only the 2 D3100s. As long as they can power your amps fine, which they will. Because overkill is not always a good thing. The 2 Stingers would just not be needed.

4. You should put as much grounds to the frame as you can fit. Certainly to match the amount of positive leads you have. So yes, you should do 3 or 4 on each side if you can fit.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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That blue wire is a bit of a ruse. It's a cheap version of 0awg and actually not truly 0awg. They use a thicker jacket to make it appear larger.

So lets add some answers.

1. Yes you can add more runs of any size. No different sizes will not have any ill effects.

2. Different size fuses are OK. As long as they are within limits for the wire they are used on. I suggest 250A fuses on the red wire.

3. You can use the Stingers with the D3100s and have more capacity. Though the more batteries you do have, the more energy it takes to charge them and keep them charged. So your alternator may work better if there were only the 2 D3100s. As long as they can power your amps fine, which they will. Because overkill is not always a good thing. The 2 Stingers would just not be needed.

4. You should put as much grounds to the frame as you can fit. Certainly to match the amount of positive leads you have. So yes, you should do 3 or 4 on each side if you can fit.

Thank you for your answers! I think im ready to get to work on my truck., what size fuse would you recommend for the blue wire sense you are recommending 250A for the red?

My Youtube Channel

Trying to guess the SPL of a system with out a meter is like trying to guess how much air pressure is in a compressor tank just by letting some of the air out.

...Seems like 90 psi...

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Share on other sites

Do yourself a favor and do 2 runs of quality 1/0 OFC and be done with it. Playing around with not enough CCA or inferior 1/0 that is 75% jacket is just going to create more work for you.

CURRENT SYSTEM:

  • Alternator:
    1. Stock alt on mids/highs
    2. Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v
  • Batteries: (2) XS D1400s
  • Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks
  • Headunit: 80-PRS
  • Sub Amp: DC 5.0k
  • Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones
  • Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal.
  • Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4
  • Active Components:
    • Mids RE XXX 6.5c
    • Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar)
  • Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab.

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If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD

 
Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db
Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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That blue wire is a bit of a ruse. It's a cheap version of 0awg and actually not truly 0awg. They use a thicker jacket to make it appear larger.

So lets add some answers.

1. Yes you can add more runs of any size. No different sizes will not have any ill effects.

2. Different size fuses are OK. As long as they are within limits for the wire they are used on. I suggest 250A fuses on the red wire.

3. You can use the Stingers with the D3100s and have more capacity. Though the more batteries you do have, the more energy it takes to charge them and keep them charged. So your alternator may work better if there were only the 2 D3100s. As long as they can power your amps fine, which they will. Because overkill is not always a good thing. The 2 Stingers would just not be needed.

4. You should put as much grounds to the frame as you can fit. Certainly to match the amount of positive leads you have. So yes, you should do 3 or 4 on each side if you can fit.

Thank you for your answers! I think im ready to get to work on my truck., what size fuse would you recommend for the blue wire sense you are recommending 250A for the red?

I would say 250A for the blue also. Since it is slightly undersized

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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