Slammed Dodge Challenger Sundown/CT Sounds Build

[P4killer_]

ok as you can see the port area per foot is just off the charts imo. for some reason torres is a little funny when theres a port bend like that so i like to use the re box calc to kinda double check

30 per ft is just waaay too much actually i forgot you inverted so its off. that .1 woofer displacement is not accurate but doesnt change it much. it goes down to 27.xx idk why its off thats why i prefer the re one for port bended boxes.

doing the math, 31.5 sq inch / 1.319 cuft = 23.88

this should be about right according to what you gave me

[P4killer_]

either way too much port area, and tuning in the 42+ hz is fine sure. np really buut id prollly bring it down to say 35 for most ppl.

now just shrinking the port to 2x 10.5 would also decrease the space the port takes up, which increases your net to 1.53. so same box just smaller port.

if thats too big, bring the depth in by an inch. so 31.5w x 11d x 12h again with a 2 x 10.5 port = 1.35 net right where you were.

tuning came right out at 35 lucky me. thats about 15.5 sqin per ft of port. should be great. and youll get an inch more of storage room.

[SICKSPD]

You don't have a port area problem, you have a gain and power problem. I'm assuming you're running these subs at 1Ω so if that's not the case, please correct me.

You said your head unit has 4 volt preamp outs and you said you have the gain at half way (12 o'clock). For a 4 volt signal that gain should be set ~8:30-9:00. Anything above that will cause you to clip and as far above that as you are, you're clipping badly, On top of that, you're pushing 1000 watts worth of subs with a 2400 watt amp. That's not necessarily unsafe but it damn sure is if you're clipping the shit out of them too. ;-) If you get hold of a DD-1, set the gain with a 0dB track. Track one, to be exact.

On the subject of phase... it doesn't matter if subwoofers are not in phase with the mids and highs but it's incredibly important that subwoofers be in phase with one another. If one sub is inverted and the other is not, then one sub must be wired with the opposite polarity of the other and it does not matter which one. Phase is, in simple terms, the outward and inward movement of the driver's piston. So if there are two drivers playing the same frequency and one moves in while the other moves out, it will cause cancellation and that results in lowered volume. If you've ever heard a speaker played in free air, then you've heard phase cancellation. It happens when the back wave cancels the front wave's movement and vice versa. That doesn't change when there are more than on speaker and they're mounted in a box.... -1 always cancels +1, so to speak. As for the phase knob on the amp, it serves as a quick way to adjust phase because on a very rare occasion, having the subs out of phase with the rest of the speakers does actually improve sound quality but, this is normally when the front stage has midbass drivers that play unusually well down low or when the subs are crossed over unusually high. Because again, you have two or more different drivers playing the same frequencies. Also, phase shifting can also help in trunk cars or when the subs are pointing backward in an SUV or the like but to be frank, that's usually not even audible unless you're in an SQ build.

Back to the box... it's fine. You do not have too much port area. Those subs have a lot of xmax and that means they can move a lot of air in and out of the box. It is true that more port area and more volume will allow the subs to unload more quickly but they'll only do that if you drive them too hard (see above). Once things are set up properly, you'll see that your box design is spot on for those subs. They will hit the lows well but will still play pretty loud while doing it.

Back to the amp, set the low pass filter to 80 Hz. On that amp it should be ~10:00 iirc. Set the infrasonic filter to 28-30 Hz and do not use bass boost at all, ever, period. I have a sneaking suspicion that your voltage drop problems are related to the gain setting on your amp but it would be a good idea to go over ALL of your power connections, from the alternator back. If you still have voltage drop after than, look at putting in a second battery and possibly an HO alternator. After all, you're right at the threshold of your electrical system's abilities with that amp, even when it's not clipping. I also don't remember reading where you added zero gauge wire from the alternator back and I don't remember seeing it in your pictures. If I'm correct and you haven't done that, do that.

Lastly, you're doing a great job man. I've seen some "veteran" car audio guys who could take a few lessons from you where attention to detail is concerned. Forget that.. a LOT of lessons, lol. And sorry for the wall of text but there were so many myths being spewed in this thread that I had to double check and make sure I hadn't stumbled onto Pat Robertson's website.

Edit: Phase is the position of the driver's piston during its outward and inward movement. DOH.

I appreciate the input. Im going to look into all that. Im planning on the additional battery soon. Unfortunately with my car the only way to run a new power wire from the alt is pulling the alt first then Id have to strip my entire interior, not to mention figuring out where I could entire through the firewall so I haven't gotten that far lol. Theres one guy I believe on here and he's been all over youtube, named "thejesus" with a walled challenger and he ran his zero gauge wire actually under the car which I frankly don't really think is a smart option considering how low i sit. I've got to look over with the system to get it right. I appreciate all the advice though and will let you know where I stand once I check it all out.

[SICKSPD]

ok as you can see the port area per foot is just off the charts imo. for some reason torres is a little funny when theres a port bend like that so i like to use the re box calc to kinda double check

30 per ft is just waaay too much actually i forgot you inverted so its off. that .1 woofer displacement is not accurate but doesnt change it much. it goes down to 27.xx idk why its off thats why i prefer the re one for port bended boxes.

doing the math, 31.5 sq inch / 1.319 cuft = 23.88

this should be about right according to what you gave me

Im going to look at another box build once I see what tuning the amp and where rewiring will get me as its the simplest solution so to speak without removing this box. Best case scenario is some tweaking will get it right, but even if it requires a rebuild I won't be all that mad. Its a learning experience. Theres so much math and electrical knowledge that goes into all this, makes my brain hurt lol

[P4killer_]

If I understood the issue correctly, it was muddy sounding bass. Not much air or port velocity. If the subs are moving well obviously power isnt an issue. Phase would be next. I thought that was sorted. Box would be next. But yea if that amp does 2800w or so thats alot for 1 d3400 stock alt even.

[SICKSPD]

If I understood the issue correctly, it was muddy sounding bass. Not much air or port velocity. If the subs are moving well obviously power isnt an issue. Phase would be next. I thought that was sorted. Box would be next. But yea if that amp does 2800w or so thats alot for 1 d3400 stock alt even.

yeah i got some clipping going on. I've seen it dyno'd doing 1800. i need another d3400. hopefully that will level out the voltage some

[Bodied B2600ZX]

Meade has an amp test Tuesday video on YouTube where it did like 2392

[bbeljefe]

Actually, it was 2406.

[SojiaRaggs9000]

Im not 100% on this but since our interors are very close... You might check under the hood on the passanger side. Look on the Firewall, there should be a grommet there. That hole should lead to behind the glove box where that same grommet is behind the vent box were the blower motor is located.

[Bodied B2600ZX]

Actually, it was 2406.

Mmmmmmm I can't wait! !