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Need tech help. I'm stuck, and don't want to move on till...


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could also look at the alpine m240 i have always loved alpine amps, rf is great also. i also am loving my kicker kx1600

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could also look at the alpine m240 i have always loved alpine amps, rf is great also. i also am loving my kicker kx1600

I'll look at those, thanks man. I think I'm just over the JL amps. As I mentioned, it's also old. The 300/4 sounds great though, but from what I've read on audio forums, the JL amps are power hungry. The SQ is great, but I need to move on. This issue really burns my arse. I've spent a ton of time perfecting what I'm working with, to turn around and have these issues. It's like a slap to the face. Lol

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What's your voltage dropping to?

Not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure no less than 11.5-12v. The amp is cutting out even at 1/2 volume, so it's not even drawing what it normally would when I was running a single sub. I did build a "big 3" set up and all. I don't have a volt gage installed, I'm just going off the dash. The gage usually stays at a consistent 12-14 volts even when the amp cuts out. The 4 channel stays playing fine. No clipping, nothing. And before you ask why I don't have a volt gage, I really just stepped up the audio to where it's at now. Didn't think I would ever need one. I also throw on the trickle charger a few times a week to keep the battery fresh.

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No extra amp, but I did go back to a single sub and turned the gain below the point where it would be less than 500 watts and it sounded like crap.

Anyone have an idea about the arched ground???

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Ground will arc due to poor connection. Sometimes mount points that look solid are not, which is why it is advisable to go direct to the frame of the vehicle (or a thick area of the unibody if there is no acceptable frame mounting location).

Quite likely the amp is just dead, especially if the ground was poor.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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Ground will arc due to poor connection. Sometimes mount points that look solid are not, which is why it is advisable to go direct to the frame of the vehicle (or a thick area of the unibody if there is no acceptable frame mounting location).

Quite likely the amp is just dead, especially if the ground was poor.

I agree. I plan on running a OFC 4 gage run to a common ground from the negative battery post. I'll be sure the ground is enough to ground sufficient (although I thought it was) next time around. I've not been the happiest with the JL 1000 anyways. Its a V1 and it just never really seemed like it played like it should.

Maybe I'll have JL repair it and sell it for just over what I pay for the repair? its only $180 to rebuild. So if I rebuild and sell for $250 I'll be ok.

Now I need to start a thread to see what amp people recommend for 2 JL 12" W7's.... I'm not seeing too much on this forum about JL audio, so I hope its not one of those flaming deals... For the mean time, I have the amp hooked up to 1 sub and turned down. I'll probably just take all that crap out and start again after new year.

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