Smd ad-1 vs clamping read before being a smartass please.

[Wicks]

So wicks from your statement your amp hardly sees one ohm right. So couldnt you get a bigger amp that does closer to the rms of your woofer at 2 ohms or higher.

Absolutely!

I've also considered reconing so I can wire down to "0.5ohms" which real-world would probably measure pretty close to the 1ohm range.

I would suspect that this is a major reason why some amps don't "appear" to be as loud as the owner thinks they should be, so they crank the gain to get more output which puts them into some bad clipping.

DISCLAIMER: Even though you aren't "actually" driving the speaker under its rated impedance, it would be wired lower then its "nominal" rating or you would be using that amplifier that is "over-rated" for the speaker's power rating so expect the manufacturers to void the warranties if something goes wrong.

It is possible that cheaper equipment expects these extra tolerances to be added.

So even though they state: "Rated to 1ohm" they may actually only be rated to ~2ohms since realistically that's what the amplifier actually sees.

[Kyblack76]

Wiring down, DOES have its place. Nice job Wicks ..

[HowLowCanYouGo]

This is way to much information to handle at one time... lol

[Dd9515 king]

If you didnt have the money for an amp. Couldnt you just try to build a better box that gives you less rise?

[Wicks]

If you didnt have the money for an amp. Couldnt you just try to build a better box that gives you less rise?

Sure some boxes will affect the speaker differently, but I don't think you'll ever get the effect you're hoping for.

Here's a plot of a Hertz ES200 8" sub that I also tested:

It was tested in a sealed box, ported box and then free-air.

Notice that in the sealed box, the (single) peak impedance is (orange line) about 28 ohms.

In the ported box, you have have two peaks at 21 and 22 ohms (red line).

So obviously the impedance goes down with the ported box which follows the convention that ported boxes are "louder" then sealed boxes.

Given that assumption you would think that measuring the speaker in free-air (VERY VERY large box) that the impedance would go down even more.

Well, look at the blue line.....the impedance went up to the highest measurement of almost 30 ohms.

In every case you're still WELL over the nominal rating of 4ohms. So it looks like playing with different boxes won't get you anywhere near that "4 ohm" range.

There are "Zobel Networks" which are supposed to compensate for these impedance peaks and bring the resultant impedance down to something more like a resistive circuit but I haven't researched or experienced those so I can't say too much about them.

That's more of a Tony D question. Maybe if he continues to make his videos, he'll cover it...?

[Dd9515 king]

I watched all his video's thats why i asked this question. With your data the ad-1 is useless for most. If one person test to see if the amp does rated. Then you know you can Support the electrical. The ad-1 does nothing for you. So another question. What would you change to get a more efficient system to get the most power out of your amp. Driver or box? Wicks said changing your box wont do much on imp. Rise so how do you get less rise?

[Wood]

I watched all his video's thats why i asked this question. With your data the ad-1 is useless for most. If one person test to see if the amp does rated. Then you know you can Support the electrical. The ad-1 does nothing for you. So another question. What would you change to get a more efficient system to get the most power out of your amp. Driver or box? Wicks said changing your box wont do much on imp. Rise so how do you get less rise?

From a personal standpoint, yes the ad-1 may be useless.. but for companies that build amplifiers its a great tool! thats how I see it. Its definitely not a necessity to the avg joe

[Wood]

And Wick, You are one SMART MF! Once I dig more into my EE courses I'll be looking forward to soaking all that knowledge

[Wicks]

And Wick, You are one SMART MF! Once I dig more into my EE courses I'll be looking forward to soaking all that knowledge

Baaaah, much appreciated Sir. I just know a bit of theory and I just want to help give people an insight into how some things work.

I watched all his video's thats why i asked this question. With your data the ad-1 is useless for most. If one person test to see if the amp does rated. Then you know you can Support the electrical. The ad-1 does nothing for you. So another question. What would you change to get a more efficient system to get the most power out of your amp. Driver or box? Wicks said changing your box wont do much on imp. Rise so how do you get less rise?

From a personal standpoint, yes the ad-1 may be useless.. but for companies that build amplifiers its a great tool! thats how I see it. Its definitely not a necessity to the avg joe

True, the AD-1 is not necessary or affordable for the every-guy but I wouldn't call it useless.

At ~$2700 its only going to go towards people who can really utilize it.

The AD-1 will tell you exactly what your amplifier is capable of under worst case conditions.

It can also give you a baseline power number for your current system which you can use to gauge how much certain power upgrades help your system (bigger alternator, more wire, different wire type, etc).

If you truly want to correctly measure your system power then the AMM-1 is for you and is much more affordable.

on your other question:

So another question. What would you change to get a more efficient system to get the most power out of your amp. Driver or box? Wicks said changing your box wont do much on imp. Rise so how do you get less rise?

This is a BIGGG question...

There are tons of things you can do to get the most out of your amp.

-Bigger alternator

-More power runs

-Dual inputs

-More batteries

I have yet another plot for you to look at

This is a sweep of my sub box in my car again, but with the door closed and windows up (sealed).

Recall from my other plot (door open) that around 49Hz, my impedance was about 9ohms.

Notice on the latest plot (door closed) that at 47Hz I am now at 15ohms.

Follows the logic that some vehicles are louder with the door open / windows down.

So far it seems...less rise = more output....

Ok...what I'm getting at is this.

Remember in a previous post, I mentioned that my peak SPL (so far) was at 49Hz.

Check out my impedance sweeps above (sealed or door open).

Notice my peak SPL occurs right at one of my impedance peaks........

So the thinking that less rise = loudest SPL doesn't quite work out.

My conclusion would be that your SPL is not directly related to your amplifier output. There's SOO much more to it then that.

In the future I plan on getting some decent test tones and plotting my SPL vs frequency and adding it to these plots to compare.

Should be interesting as well.

[Dd9515 king]

The companys that build amps have probly the same thing the ad-1 does just from a different company thats alot more expensive.