Chris Bastin Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I own an '06 MINI R52 JCW (it's a convertible). I had an '06 R53 (hatch) for the last 3 years and installed a decent, low cost system in it. I had a JVC AVX33 head unit, Polk MM 6501 components up front, a single 15" Polk MM in the boot and a Soundstream REF 4.760 amp (120ish watts front/320ish watts sub). Nothing special but it made the stock H/K sound pretty crappy.I was able to keep the sub and amp from my last MINI and would like to install it in my current MINI along with my old Eclipse CD3200. I'm going to try out 2 sets of Crescendo Audio CZ separates (5.25 & 6.5) this go around mainly because of cost (should arrive today!). Funds aren't flowing like they were a couple years ago and I've read some good things about Crescendo here on the SMD forums. My last enclosure for the 15 was the recommended 1.5 cu.ft. sealed. Sounded pretty good. Nice and tight for my metal music but would still boom when I had that old school basshead come out in me. This is the first convertible I've owned and I'm worried that the output from a sealed enclosure won't be enough to compensate for the convertible top. Polk also has a recommended ported enclosure of 2.5 cu.ft. I could fit either in there but this MINI has less trunk than my last one. Do you think I could do a ported baffle behind the back seat and use my entire trunk as the enclosure? The trunk is 4.2 cu. ft. 99% of the time there's nothing in the trunk but if I can save some trunk space for an emergency it's a bonus.What would you recommend? The sub models as being best for a sealed enclosure but I can't buy more gear right now (the rest of my funds are needed for the install. i.e - wiring, fiberglass, enclosures, hardware and such). Think I will lose too much volume by going with a sealed enclosure in my convertible? I'm very torn about this as I have the week off and want to go to town on my MINI. Help! Also, if anyone suggests a ported enclosure, could you help me with an enclosure volume/port size you think would work well? I've punched in the t/s parameters in a few enclosure/port calculators but don't know what I'd gain by different enclosure volumes and/or port sizes. I've always built sealed enclosures in the past. Prish y'all! Here's the Specs: http://www.polkaudio.com/products/mm1540 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 In my opinion I would ditch the Polk 15 if possible and go with a smaller sub. You could probably fit a nice 12 in about a 2ft3 ported or do a little smaller sealed box that would out preform that Polk. I know you already have it but, that's a big sub and would be easier to fit a 10 or a 12 in there. Just my .02 Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bastin Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 What's a good and inexpensive sub that's efficient (I know, loaded question)? The Polk is 93db and I'm only pushing 320W rms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Whats your budget? Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Here are a few to look at C2 Audio Threatcon 2 Soundqubed HDS200 series Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Good luck trying to reproduce bass with the top down. In a closed vehicle the air pressure change adds to the experience. I have a convertible 328i and I am about to embark on the same project very soon. I would stop by a BMW dealership and listen to 135i or whatever series that smaller bimmer convertible is. My ex had a 2010 and that thing came with stock earthquake slim line subs in the front passenger seat floor boards. I was super impressed with the bass quality it had with the top down! They would vibrate the seats and floor. Something to consider. Just say good-bye to air pressure with the top up or down b/c the top will soak up the wave, and cancel some of the pressure out. Try and find some old school AURA bass shakers, that's what I thought was in her car at first. lol. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Look into dayton audio for cheap subs that sound amazing. I put a dayton ho12" in mydads old suburban on a ppi p600.2 and it sounded great Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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