how do I wire direct leads

[Nipsy06]

Ok i just picked up these terminal rings from autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-Conduct-Tite-ring-terminal/_/N-26hf?itemIdentifier=421756_0_0_ Is heat shrink necessary or can i just use electrical tape at the end of the connections???

[justin0943]

Ok i just picked up these terminal rings from autozone http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-Conduct-Tite-ring-terminal/_/N-26hf?itemIdentifier=421756_0_0_ Is heat shrink necessary or can i just use electrical tape at the end of the connections???

no take them back and get these

http://skyhighcaraudio.net/details#cid=369474

they are just better

[Nipsy06]

Seriously should I take them back and order those? Will it make that much of a difference?

[Tarball]

Get tinned copper lugs online. It's just better.

If your direct connects are too short we are starting to defeat the purpose of the direct connect. Each connection is adding a little more resistance.

[Nipsy06]

So I was reading some responses from the thread and Im guessing that this guy thought that I had made direct leads to my subs and said to make a push button. My subs came with the direct leads allready on the sub. Audioque SDC 2.5 12s. This is what my plan is. Ive ordered a butane torch and the tinned copper lugs from sky high car audio. I have Some silver solder and flux to solder the lugs on the direct leads from the sub. Heres a pic of the subs and box I will have to send more later. Basically, The wires can reach each other but wires on the left sub will not reach all the way over to the right side of the box where my terminal bolts are located. Do i simply add wire and make those leads longer and complete the job? The resistance response from tarball has me thinking im doing it wrong. Im going to solder lugs on all 4 positive and negative direct leads soldier one extra set of postive and negatieve terminals to run to the amp and place all of them on a bolt to the right side of my box... The steps will be bolt/washer/positive (5 copper tin terminals) /washer /box /washer /terminal(going to amp) /washer/nut.(copper bolt washers and nut). And the same for negative. I dont want to make all this complicated I just want to be satisfied with my first system. I have been doing this since July and have not finished because Im going to college and working trying to pay bills. Help me wrap this up before school starts back LOL Thanks Guys!!!

[Nipsy06]

http://s1161.photobucket.com/user/Nipsy06/media/subs2.jpg.html?filters[user]=128651211&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0 picture

[justin0943]

as long as they are dual 4ohm subs then you are good and wire it like this

imagine the gray is the back of the box

this is as simply as I can get it drill 10 holes 4 for - from sub and 4 for + from sub and 2 will be for going to the amp for what it looks like you got it

[Tarball]

Doing things right often come with additional complications. You will probabably be fine with extending all leads to an equal lenght that will allow them to reach the side of the box. I would likely redo the direct leads. And btw- the sky high lugs aren't tinned, they are copper though, again you should be fine with them but they will corrode over time.

[Nipsy06]

So question my box is made mdf and I know yall r saying drill the direct leads through the box.... wont the screw go through the mdf to the outside of the box??? Should I use shorter screws? Also when extending the wires do I need to order those copper butt connectors that were posted eaelier in the thread?

[Nipsy06]

I mean I have 2 holes for my positive and and negative but every screw from the diagram u drew shouldnt go through the box right? (4positive screws and 4 negative screws)