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yeah it wont exactly increase voltage, could possible but not a gurenteed.

don't know anything about the 2013 focus but check out focusfanatics.com. there has got to be a few dozen members on there that can help.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I would just look at the alt and stock wires and run new 1/0 gauge wires while leaving the stock wires attached.

more power storage isn't a bad idea. maybe look into a ho alt from a reputable company, just avoid ebay.

the more known places on this forum is dc, mechmen, and singer alts. dc being the more expensive singer being the cheaper. singer and mechman prices are just about the same though.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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3000 watts at 1ohm running a stock alternator? What's the stock alternator rated at? Sounds sketchy. And just make your own Big 3. Shouldn't be hard at all. Usually the hardest thing to do on a big 3, is getting to the alternator bolt on those smaller FWD cars.

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^^ I think the alt is a 110-130 amp alt.

as long as voltage drop isn't going to low the stock alt is fine. its not about if its a stock alt or not its about if it is keeping up or not.

op, just add 1/0 wire going from the alt to the battery, battery ground, and ground the alt or as close to the alt mounting bolt/bracket as possible. leave the stock wires there and if voltage is dropping below 13v (the higher the voltage the better but I personally think staying above 13v is a good goal) add a nice agm battery or ho alt. I prefer the ho alt option first since it actually makes power while the batteries just store power.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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I asked Mechman in march of 2013 and he told me that H/O alts will have to be custom made because of the alts pulley. and alright. it is difficult to get 0guage wiring in germany but I will look around and also consider adding another battery back there. also from what I have been told alt is 150 although it has been unconfirmed.

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[quote name="alaskanzx5" post="2691819" timestamp="

as long as voltage drop isn't going to low the stock alt is fine. its not about if its a stock alt or not its about if it is keeping up or not.

never heard it quite described like that. Puts a whole new spin on electrical upgrades for me. I always hear about an amp with x amount of power needs a battery and a high output alt or this upgrade for amp z. I ha e never had to do any electrical upgrades as my systems have always been small, but as I plan bigger it makes me realize like all things in audio its all vehicle dependent.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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ive seen build on here with an under hood agm big 3 and stock alt running 2-3k no issues staying above 13v. then there are cars where the same general setup same batts and relatively close alt output have had horrible electrical.

not all cars are made equal, some will have better connections/electrical from the factory and some wont. think about it this way, say car a has 6 gauge stock wiring for the alt and batter but car b has 8 gauge. car a has a 90 amp alt, car b has a 130amp alt.

from knowing that you cant say which will have the better electrical stock. why, because you don't know the difference in the frame, where the connections are, if they are clean and tight, and one might even like to charge at 13.8v where as the other charges at 14.4. with out personal exp you cant say what the car can handle just because your car can or cant doesn't mean their car can or cant.

if say your amp is rated to do 1k rms at 12.2 volts and your dropping below 12.2v your loosing output and potential damage to the stereo. if voltage sits around 13.2v with the same amp you could be gaining a few to a couple hundred watts.

at the higher voltage you can gain output and extend the life of the equipment. in some cases maybe even better sq.

also good agm batts rest around 12.5-12.8 some up to 13.1 volts. if your battery(s) rest at say 12.8v and you are dropping down to 12.8v that means your dropping to battery voltage and the alt isn't keeping up. adding another battery will only help with storage imo. might be able to hold above resting voltage a little bit longer but adding an ho alt for around the same price as a nice agm would be the better option imo. it produces power so that the system isn't falling back on to the battery(s).

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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