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*SOLVED* *Im happy as balls*CANNOT get wire into my doors...last straw before i'm done....any help? *pictures top of page 4* and first post.


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Posted

I can support the last comment. Dad and I have taken care of many doors and it's definitely a 2 person job...

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

Posted

trust me you dont wanna use the stock wiring n ghetto riggin it, i had that on my first install, its only going to sound muffled and not the way its supposed to. Threads too long but did you try using a coat hanger?

Current Setup: , 2 Fi sp4 18s in a big ass flat wall tuned to 23hz, Pioneer 80prs, 2 Digital Designs m3bs strapped @ 2 ohms, Banda ICE2000, Crescendo 800.4, 4 PRV 10MR1000s,4 Mclaren MLT300 Super Tweeters Kinetik 2000 XS Power 2700 & XS Power 3100s.

Posted

Most cars have cavitys in the kick an wires run in this cavity up high behind dash n8 got it right cause there should be a access offset an using the zip tie should get wire to offset if not use a big unibit an drill as close to parrallel with grommet from inside kick panel

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

Posted

waiting on pictures, but some cars have those rods that keep the door from opening too far, if yours have those like mine does, just take that off and the door will swing open more so you can get into the door jam easier.

Posted

Most cars have cavitys in the kick an wires run in this cavity up high behind dash n8 got it right cause there should be a access offset an using the zip tie should get wire to offset if not use a big unibit an drill as close to parrallel with grommet from inside kick panel

what do you mean by cavity? maybe pictures will help.

all i know is grommet is tighly packed and up under the dash to where my fingers cant reach and in the door jam i can get any thing in it paralelle.

Posted

gogin outside now to get pics

heres the moplex just to show that this isnt the issue and i got the wire through it. its whats between the molex plug and the kick panel of my car. the black hose thing.

pics in a sec.

2cy1p2p.jpg

20p6jyx.jpg

Posted

shows thcickness of metal the grommet goes through

300qzkp.jpg

thats how much finger i can get through it through the jam

358cff9.jpg

buried grommet

veb4zo.jpg

grommet ie behind all this shit

de00g2.jpg

Picture of hole under the dash. looks tightly wrapped.

2ccxhti.jpg

Shows the black hose and how i cut it to get more room and to feed the wire...didnt help.

2ylkx7q.jpg

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