MECHMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 or a video walkthrough of the cable setup and possibly even show the car started with a multimeter on the battery or batteries 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 It's not particularly odd that you're reading voltage between the negative terminal of the battery and the battery cable when disconnected. What you need to do to find out if there's excessive current draw is probe the battery and terminal the same way while having the meter set to DC amps. And keep in mind that there is a different positive connection on your meter for checking amperage. MAKE SURE YOU SWITCH THE POSITIVE LEAD BEFORE CHECKING AMPERAGE! Otherwise, you can damage your meter. ;-) If you find a current draw of a few milliamps, that's nothing to worry about. But if you find a current draw of several amps, there's something staying on or causing that draw and it needs to be fixed. That could be a bad electrical component, a high resistance short or even a set of auxiliary lights, etc. that have been left on by accident. If you do find that there's an excessive current draw, you can leave the meter connected and start pulling fuses one at a time until (hopefully) you find the circuit that has the problem. If you don't find excessive current draw it's a good chance that you have a bad battery. I've had this problem with a battery that took a charge & always reported relatively good voltage but, wouldn't crank the car after as little as five minutes with the door open and the dome lights burning. Since you have two batteries, you could just swap the one under the hood for the other one and see if the problem persists. That would likely tell you if the under hood battery is bad because it's not too common for a battery to go bad and still report voltage above 12 volts. Either that or you can take them to an Auto Parts store and have them tested, although I would caution you not to take the advice of the person who tests the battery if you take it to a place like Auto Zone or some other large company who hires less than experienced counter help. I say this not to disparage anyone but the simple fact is that these people only know how to read what their tester tells them and they often don't know how to set it for battery testing or alternator testing, lol. So if you do have the batteries tested at a big store, make sure you read the tester on both batteries. ;-) Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thank you for the input. I will try to get a video together of my setup and the tests with the multimeter. Im going the try a different meter tonight. The one I have is only showing a one while testing amps. It is to the far left of the screen, meaning it is not representing an amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Alright guys. Im thinking I may have discovered that most of you were right about the battery being bad. 2 hours after a full hour of driving the car will not start. Or the parasitic draw is so large that one battery cannot withstand it. Before with two batteries I had no problem starting after four hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 What voltage are you charging at? 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 The wall charger charges at around 15 volts if that is what you are asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloud77 Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 make sure your engine block ground, ground to frame, and back battery ground is up to par. 2004 Grand Prix GT (2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2) 5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz MMATS HD4000.05 MMATS SQ4100 Infinity Kappa components Juice Box black cherry Duralast platinum group 34 1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding Singer 250A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 They are all up to par. Have been working flawlessly for over 6 months. I checked them all yesterday too. None show any type of corrosion and are not loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 The wall charger charges at around 15 volts if that is what you are asking. 15v? That's entirely way too high. You alt is set at 14.8v right? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundown escort Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Correct. It's all I have though. And I've only used it the one time for a half hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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