MatthewReid Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 I have 2 digital designs, the one I'm currently running is a 1512 off of a Kenwood 1000w Monoblock. It's obvious that the amp can't efficiently power the 1512 because after approx 30 minutes f play, the amp begins to heat up and cut out. Well I ran into an opportunity last night to purchase a PPI PC2350 last night so I jumped on it. The amp tested fine,(in the other guys car) so I got it home, installed in my car and hooked it to the 1512. I originall attempted to bridge it but that proved unsuccessful as the amp recieved power but not audio output so switched it to the left channel, tuned on the deck, and immediately started getting backfeed into the speakers (only amplified by the deck), my car began to have a rough idle, and the amp started smoking. As soon as I removed the left channel rca, everything returned to normal. Is this a lack of power? No fuses blew and the smoke came from around the rca area.
hammiethebasshead Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 could be a short in the amp on the rca. but that shouldn't make all of the other stuff happen just maybe the amp smoking. once you get a speaker moving so hard that its possible to make tinsels slap, you are already kissing "SQ" goodbye. Don't get me wrong, as I smoke Marlboro Reds, but if I saw one more kid with that smug-ass look (Look at me I'm smoking indoors) on their face, I was going to shove that thing so far up someone's ass that they'd look like a hillbilly trying to understand quantitative prediction theorem. You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.
Ahmed Johnson Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 The only way that sub will cause your amp to overheat, is if you have it wired lower than the rated impedance. Otherwise there is nothing wrong with your amp. If I were you, I would run some new rca's. I bet the shielding scraped off and they are rubbing with each other. I bet you have that sub wired at 1 ohm, and that kenwood is 2 ohm stable causing it to overheat. You will probably have problems with your new amp if you hook both subs up and run the coils parallel.
Ahmed Johnson Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 You should really think about re-doing the whole system. Your wiring especially, I have a feeling you fucked something up.
Jessica Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 Um is that sub d4 or d2 and when you bridged the amp did you air the coils in series or parallel. Cause most 2 channel amps don't like 2ohm or lower when bridged. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13
Skullz Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 Those amps will only like 4 ohm loads bridged and 2 ohm per channel alone, and if smoke came out then the amp is smoked and in need of repair. Once repaired that amp is a beast and will power that sub quite well but only if you stay above 4 ohms. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2
MatthewReid Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Posted January 21, 2014 You should really think about re-doing the whole system. Your wiring especially, I have a feeling you fucked something up. I doubt its the RCA's I hooked it back to my Kenwood with no issues.The only issue I can see as far as wiring is at the sub. I'll take pictures later and post. I purchased all these items used, and have never really dealt in "higher-end" audio so I've never ran into an issue with the way the sub is wired.
MatthewReid Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Posted January 21, 2014 Um is that sub d4 or d2 and when you bridged the amp did you air the coils in series or parallel. Cause most 2 channel amps don't like 2ohm or lower when bridged. How can I tell whether it's d2 or d4? Its dual voice w/ pos. and neg coming from both and spliced into one pos and one neg. And as far as bridging I have no Ideal what the difference is, I'm no audio expert by any means, I just love BASS! One on R or L positive and one on opposing R or L negative at the amp
MatthewReid Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Posted January 21, 2014 Those amps will only like 4 ohm loads bridged and 2 ohm per channel alone, and if smoke came out then the amp is smoked and in need of repair. Once repaired that amp is a beast and will power that sub quite well but only if you stay above 4 ohms. Out of curiosity do you think both channels are smoked or one? And what do you believe caused it to do this?
MECHMAN Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 If the car started idling rough when the amp was hooked up, it is likely the system was placing a heavy load on the alternator, for some reason or other. You could amp clamp the alternator and amplifier cables to see how much amperage is flowing through each- if the alternator is deficient, you might need a higher output alternator for it to run properly. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.