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What would be more beneficial to me ?


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I'd add a second pos and double up the neg to where you have it now. You might not need it but It definitely couldn't hurt. I agree you don't need to run a neg from the front though.

Okay, so I have a mechman "260" amp alt, 850 cca agm batt up front, big 3 done, and 2 92 ah cell tower back up batterys in back. Would it be more beneficial for me to add a 2nd run of positive from alt to rear batts, or do a run of negative from the negative of front batt to rear batt negative ? Oh sub amp is dc 2k and I only drop to like 12.5-12.6 at idle wangin away at full tilt on a dc lvl5 18.

I certainly would not run a second run off the alternator. The stud IS NOT a good distribution point to run to the back of the vehicle. That will cause the regulator to overheat and become LESS efficient. I would run a larger cable to the front battery and then distribute from there. The ground is totally up to you if you want or feel the need to run it. otherwise I would make certain it is clean and tight

would you reccomend running some 2/0 or somethin from back to front ? And the ground in the back is tight and everything, I just don't see how a shiny chassis ground wouldn't be a solid ground. I also heard grounding on the front batt is a good spot to ground if you can.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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No. There's no point in adding extra wiring if you can't make the power. Your alt is 260 amp max. Wire for that. A single run of 1/0 ofc is efficient for that

I feel like I should have no voltage drop at all, though. Idk, maybe it is my ground ? My buddy just gave me a run of wire, so doing a run of negative from front to back would ensure a proper ground right ? I don't want to drill a hole to get a frame ground.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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Big 3 done? What exactly is the ground to?

Make sure you have a 0 gauge ground either from an alt mounting/bracket bolt or as close to the alt as you can. The alt case is your ground with the car on.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Big 3 done? What exactly is the ground to?

Make sure you have a 0 gauge ground either from an alt mounting/bracket bolt or as close to the alt as you can. The alt case is your ground with the car on.

Yes big 3. The ground for amps and back batts is bare chassis in cargo area. And elaborate on the alt casing being the ground when the car is on. Isn't that just an engine ground anyways ?

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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The alt case is the ground while the car is running so making sure you have a solid return path to the alt is a must. if the alt mounts to the head and there isn't a ground from the head to the frame then it has to go through the small head bolts because the gasket separates a connection between the block and head. It chokes the return path.

So you did the engine ground, battery ground, and alt positive to battery all in 0 gauge right?

what bolt exactly are you grounded to in the back? did you drill/tap for a new grounding point or did you use an existing bolt? If you used an existing bolt is it coated/painted (bolt itself)? If so that could be a weak point.

I personally will most likely do a grounding stud on the floor if the trunk in the spare tire well the under the car a ground to the frame from that stud.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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You have 0 gauge front to back for the positive run? 0 gauge from batt to batt in the back? Are the batts grounded and the amp grounded to the batts out the amp grounded to the chassis?

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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It's not the only ground when the car is running. It's a good ground to have though

Haha "putative" and "giraffe"

A little while back I believe it was snafu that proved the alt case is the grounding point for a cars entire electrical system with the car on.

Fixed that typo to lol, stupid phone auto correct.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

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