CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 So i want to be able to attend my first comps this year and i want my car to be loud enough so i don't embaras myself. i have a CT Sounds 1200.1 and was looking at geting AQ 312's dual 2ohm and wiring to 0.5ohm for comp and 2ohm streeet. (already tested it and this amp will push 0.5 all day long... in the winter. now would this be acceptable or should i get dual 4's and wite to 1ohm instead? when i complete this buld it will include a mech man alt to go with it the rest is already in placee. Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 What kind of electrical do you have to run the amp at .5 Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 currently i have a type 31 in trunk, yellow top type 24 under hood with 0/2 welding wire and big 3, with a 125 amp alt. Beore spring i will be purchasing a mech man 240amp alt Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Wiring is for sure important, but knowing where your vehicle peaks, frequency wise, along with knowing the competing organization's rules and classes will help just as much. Rather than working as much about wiring.and ohm load, for a beginner, I'd focus more on building an enclosure and making tweaks to find your gains on the meter there instead. A low 30s tuned enclosure sounds great on music right? If your car peaks in the high 40s, your gonna lose a lot of SPL in a low tuned box and would benefit from a nice higher tuned enclosure with sufficient port area. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 your right Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 however if i go 0.5 ohm i will buy 312's and if i go 1 ohm i will buy 212's and both those would have a diff box and reeq right. 33hz instead of 39hz and i am from a small city and have no way of testing spl at different frequencys so i was just going togo with manuf. recomendations Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 well after your first comp, you'll find out where you peak. From there, you could build a different box, or you could make a box with removable ports that interchange. ONE tuned high for SPL, one tuned low for daily. And yes, box will obviously be different if using 2 or 3 subs Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 no sory but the bad typing, both 2 subs but different models AQ HDS 212'S -600w rms ea AQ HDS 312'S -1200w rms ea amp pushes 1200w rms at 1ohm and guy from CT said apx 1600 at 0.5 if memory serves (CT 1200.1) And like you said i have to choose the subs before the comp and i can build a new box after. if its not tuned right Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 no-one answered my question Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timc31610 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 The answer is build and test. I would go with the HDS312's and a bigger amp. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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