babyjoker Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 ok i plan on buying as fi ssd 15 some time in the next 2-3 months, what do you think about the 10'' model. SSD10 Does this one sound like a good sub to use?What do you think, the Qms is a bit higher then .4 but DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 the Qts is well below .7 Fs: 28.3 Hz | 27.6 Hz Re: 0.75 Ohms/coil | 1.5 Ohms/coil Qms: 4.17 | 4.27 Qes: .48 | .44 Qts: .43 | .40 Mms: 166g | 175g Cms: 0.19mm/N | 0.19mm/N Sd: 310cm^2 | 310cm^2 Vas: 25.6 l | 25.6 l Spl: 82.7dB 1W/1m | 82.7dB 1W/1m Bl: 9.3 N/A | 14.1 N/A Xmax: 21mm Rms: 800W Sealed box: .6-1 cuft Ported box: .9-1.5 cuft @ 33Hz Sub OD: 11.000” Cut ID: 9.250” Mounting depth: 6.000” Displacement: 0.12cuft 1999 Eclipse N/T 12'' Fi BTL Gp3000d PM D3100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GPMACHINE Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 Listed below are the specs on the JL Audio 10w3v2-d2's. I have four of them along with a Kx1200.1 and a 98 GMC 3500 cargo van for work (space not a issue) they're going to go in. What is the general consensus on using these subs for the tline? Good, Bad, or Ugly? Please spec out in a post how you would calculate the box specs for these so i can better understand how it is done and which way you would do it and why. I have never built a sub enclosure before and this one would be my first. If i can get some pro help I'll post some pro pics and vids of my "First Time!" for you all to enjoy! - Thanks, Bob Free Air Resonance (Fs): 28.1 Hz Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.474 Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 9.50 Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.452 Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 1.71 cu. ft. / 48.4 liters One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 0.549 in. / 13.9 mm Reference Efficiency (no): 0.217% Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 85.4 dB SPL Effective Piston Area (Sd): 53.5 sq. in. / 0.0345 sq. m. DC Resistance (Re): 3.31 ohm*** Nominal Impedance (Znom): Dual 2 ohm Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 300W Driver Displacement: 0.05 cu. ft. / 1.42 liters Net Weight: 9.6 lbs. / 4.4 kg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F N LO Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 4 eva bumpn!, i need someinput asap, i made a box for 2 15'' clarions, and i used the 1/4tline approach, the port area i got was 150sqin, so my port is 10''x15''... after i cut and glued half of it i realized i made a mistake, i wasnt able to keep it 10'' all the way along, without cutting what i already finished, so to make a long story short, i figured another route, whihc left me with around 6ft length, whihc means ill be tuned high like 48hz, if i put a layer of polyfill around the whole inside will that lengthen my box to around the 40hz level?? its going into a blow through, so 48hz is a lil high, i figure for the truck 40 shoul dbe good or 38 if i can... if you can let me noe what i should to asap i would highly appreciate,it, thanx bro!!! p.s., my port looks REally big, and short, but my measurements add up everytime i calc. it, soemtimes with bog boxs with liek 15s, and tuned around 38-40, do they look odd on the inside??lol i geuss ill see when its installed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 Polyfill should be able to reduce the tuning f n lo. The best way is just to hook it up at low power/volume and add polyfill until you reach the right tuning. It's pretty hard to estimate the amount you need without hearing it. @ Babyjoker and gpmachine both those subs would work. 28 hz is a long t line though. read the first post thoroughly and it explains how to make one. A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forevrbumpn Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 Sorry guys I havent been able to get on SMD in a few days, Ive been busy with work, and lots of side projects, then rain, and everything else. If anyone has question, and would like a faster response, just email/ IM my AOL, [email protected] And Yeah, those BTLs, SSDs, Qs, make great Tline subs, I personally only a hears 1-12" SSD and it sounded great. FNL, yeah man, stuff that line with poly fill, and just experiemnt with how much you should use. Fabric store, its like $5 a lb I think. Or just use some old pillows. I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 go to walmart. poly-fil is like $5 for about 5 lbs there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F N LO Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 go to walmart. poly-fil is like $5 for about 5 lbs there.i went to home depot and asked for poly fill and they tryed to sell me plaster i was liek fuck dat, haha so i went to work and scored like 10lbs of this shit that is exactly like poly fill but we use it for air filters on some off the machines...the bad part, the box i was making is no longer needed as the guy bought some other subs.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudlancer Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 cause you "ahem" screwed up the box Its all good man:P It was a mistake!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast1one Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 A little insight If you guys have ALL the parameters of the subwoofers, you can use the classic alignment tables http://www.quarter-wave.com/Theory/Alignment_Tables.pdf It helps you calculate the actual length, amount of mouth area, as well as add taper or an expanding line (taper goes from bigger to smaller mouth, better SQ, less output, usually better control of the subs movement, expanding gets bigger kind of like a horn, better output, little shakier response but not to bad, more linear excursion from sub). Of course these are all assuming you tune to the subs FS and it is not a guarantee that the enclosure will perform well. You need modeling software, which i have, but costs money Still a more precise way of calculating length... Theres a lot of background info so just ignore all of that and go to the tables and the steps 1-5(watch your units! The math isnt that bad either!). O and driver offset is used to tame nasty upper harmonics experienced by these boxes usually in the 80 HZ region. You mount the woofer a certain distance from the closed end of the line to reduce this. Stuffing also works but dont over do it. Both of these reduce output. I would recommend adding a LP filter at 60HZ with atleast a 18db/octave slope. The peaks can get very big. O and be careful with power!!! Ive build a good share of these now and know a lot more than before, visit http://t-linespeakers.org/ and start reading. Just helping you guys out with some recommendations. Next build is my home sub, a single 8 inch 20 dollar driver that should reach 110DB in room with only 25 watts of input. Response is from 23-60HZ flat have fun experimenting Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneup Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 What do you think about this design. This is my first try designing a T-line. Its tuned at 33hz. Its for two SX 15's. The SX's FS is actually 29hz but thats as close as I could get it. Its 8ft 6in long, I went with almost the SD of both subs. 247in^2 (13.5x18in). That would be a HUGE port! If I built it I would add baffles to all the corners. I just didn't feel like modeling the baffles in there. It would be going into an S10 truck, with the box upright behind the seats. Think that this is an accurate design? As I said I really know nothing about this type of box except what you posted here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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