6berry Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Just thought I would share a tline I built for a guy on the weekend. I dont really build boxes any more, but this guy came back to me after a couple years in hiding, I couldn't say no... Just one of my FLC 10"s Usually about a 500-600rms subwoofer. Being ran at 2ohms on a Hifonic's 1000w amp- seeing about 750rms. Quarter-wave tuned to about 40hz, but plays well below. Installed in a 95' Jeep Grand Cherokee ^ Notice the slight angle to the line. I still wont say its quite a horn, but I guess you can. Starts off about 45sq inches, ends about 70sq inches. I build my t lines this way because they seem to handle more power, and play more accurately Finished. To make the woofer fit, I had to grind out about 1/4" of the divider in the back This box sounded great, lows as clean and powerful as a 15" or pair of 12s, and accuracy of a 10" cone. This time, with this customer, I made sure he got an amp more powerful than needed, so everything can be toned down alot. Gain is low, no boosts in the deck at all, bass, loud, all Zero. Very clean, cone still barely moves 1/2" peak at the lowest freqs so what im wondering is how do you know what to make the port area of the inside and the outside? do you make the inside start at the sd of the sub and then taper it to make it like 60% larger? 1999 Audi A4 1.8T::: 4 - DC Level 3 10's in a 4th order Rockford P6002 on Subs for now (3-3.5k coming eventually) MB Quart ONX4.60 for Mids and Highs Boston S50 Components in Front Boston S65 Coaxials in Rear 40 Sq Ft of Second Skin Damplifier Build Thread UBL 1948 Plymouth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 beginning is smaller than the sd of the sub. I would say use the sd of an 8" for a 10".. and exit should be sd of 10" for 10".. but i'm just guessing by the pictures MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 ^close, you want the exit to be larger than the sd of the woofer used with the beginning smaller My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Size of exit would more likely depend on xmax specs of the driver used. A high xmax driver could withstand a larger than sd exit easiler than one with low xmax. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcofer Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 How far should the port be away from any vehicle wall? My design has 15"x9.25" port mouth but is only ~5" +/- 1" from the sidewall of my jeep when pushed against the opposite wall. Is this distance good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 In short, no. In practice, maybe. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertMcDonald Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 I have 4 12" subs that have a combined sd of about 306. In a T-Line, the area of the line should be equal to the sd of the sub. So in my case, it shoud be about 300. What would be the effect if the line area was small. Perhaps 260 instead of 300. My link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 output at or above tuning might get a bit of a peak to it, subs will handle slightly more power. Thats about all. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetMetalBen Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Im trying to find a design for a sub up, port back, T line. Has anybody every done one? I mean in know how to do it, but will it work to its "optimum" level? The sub would be laying flat with the cone pushing the waves horizontal, but the port would be coming out vertical. will that screw things up? I really only want sub up, port back for the look Im trying to get. I plan on using 2 RF HX2 10's or 2 RF HX2 8's if I can ever find any for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mylow907 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 quick question. Is sub placement in relation to port important? I'd like to do one in my Cadillac but want to have sub (hybrid 6 1/2) and port in the rear deck lid between the 6x9's. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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