Eddie Long Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Not necessarily. not necessarily what ?.......good to keep a constant depth on the line ?.....that is what a t-line is isn't it....A type of subwoofer box that has a constant line throughout ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Long Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Quote...from the tutorial....from the first page..... "to have a true T-line, you need to keep the port/tunnel/line - a Line, that equals Cone area, or pretty close to it." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hammer Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Quote...from the tutorial....from the first page..... "to have a true T-line, you need to keep the port/tunnel/line - a Line, that equals Cone area, or pretty close to it." The tapering alters output and can actually increase it. Tapered lines are way over my head and the math that is involved but I hav e afeeling he gets the fundamentals and isn't just winging it on angle length etc. Tapered ones are out of my realm right now but something I want to try in the near future. I think they are considered a transmission line box still because they still involve calculating the quarter wave and stuff. OR i could be totally wrong...wouldnt be the first time. MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChatraN Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 sub PG R312D4 SD sub 500cm2 SD port constant 502 cm2 sintonized at Fs ~33hz 18mm mdf The line would be better if it was the same depth all the way. If you scroll through here you can find some examples of what I mean. Hope it works out for you it HAS the same depth and constant since the 1st 45 till the end of the port. The line area should equal or exceed slighty the cone area of the driver used. Normally, it is difficult to make the line area exactly equal to the cone area, as the frame and mounting immediately force an area larger than the cone area. The area can be gradually tapered down to the actual area to save space, but it can remain the same as when it started, as long as it is not more than than about 20-25% more area. This means a very tight sizing for the woofer mount and the begining of the line. http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/classic.html btw, thank you Eddie! I just realized that i could do the normal desing since the depth of this line is a little larger than the actual magnet. On my first attemp of t-line box (10 inch sub) i had this problem, the magnet depth of the sub was 12.5cm or so and the depth of the line was around 10cm, and i didn't wanted to waste extra space on the first division so i ended up using this kind of non-pure t-line desing xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Quote...from the tutorial....from the first page..... "to have a true T-line, you need to keep the port/tunnel/line - a Line, that equals Cone area, or pretty close to it." The tapering alters output and can actually increase it. Tapered lines are way over my head and the math that is involved but I hav e afeeling he gets the fundamentals and isn't just winging it on angle length etc. Tapered ones are out of my realm right now but something I want to try in the near future. I think they are considered a transmission line box still because they still involve calculating the quarter wave and stuff. OR i could be totally wrong...wouldnt be the first time. Tapering the box (inward or out, depends on preferred acoustic outcome) does exactly that, increases the capability of the t-line for your preference. Some of the calculations end up looking very similar to a tapped horn. The bog standard "i can build it" basic t-line is a symmetrical length of port built to your preferred resonant frequency. Where you go beyond that is your choice. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Long Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Just a thought, if the mounting depth of the sub is deeper than the line, then you could always double up the front baffle where the sub is mounted. This will work also if you are wanting to keep a constant line. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyG2 Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 From my understanding, as long as the line doesn't get any THINNER than cone area, than it doesn't matter much, as long as it's not much wider. The thinnest part of the line is pretty much the bottleneck, and it will act as if that's the constant length. *New vehicle and system coming soon.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hammer Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Quote...from the tutorial....from the first page..... "to have a true T-line, you need to keep the port/tunnel/line - a Line, that equals Cone area, or pretty close to it." The tapering alters output and can actually increase it. Tapered lines are way over my head and the math that is involved but I hav e afeeling he gets the fundamentals and isn't just winging it on angle length etc. Tapered ones are out of my realm right now but something I want to try in the near future. I think they are considered a transmission line box still because they still involve calculating the quarter wave and stuff. OR i could be totally wrong...wouldnt be the first time. Tapering the box (inward or out, depends on preferred acoustic outcome) does exactly that, increases the capability of the t-line for your preference. Some of the calculations end up looking very similar to a tapped horn. The bog standard "i can build it" basic t-line is a symmetrical length of port built to your preferred resonant frequency. Where you go beyond that is your choice. I've always been interested in tapped horns. Could you pm me maybe with a place I can go to read up on them. I think I want to try one for my little home audio 10" sub MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Best place is usually your favorite home theater based forum. I'd suggest Bill Fitz Maurice but he has this thing against any diaphragm exceeding 15" which makes it exceedingly hard to discuss horns there from time to time.. MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Gibson Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 So I think I've gotten my spec on a T-Line box for my Polk 8". My line will be 8' with a port area of 2.3ft^3. I have to go to Augusta Tomorrow so I'm going to pick up some MDF to supplement my stack in the shop just so I have extra if needed. Here are my T/S Parameters as per the manual. QTS:0.6 QMS:5.5 QES:0.7 VAS:15.40L FS:35Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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