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please do! a amp not hooked up is like looking at playboy..... yea it will get you excited and it's nice to look at, but unless your 13 it's not gonna get you what you really want.

I DO have D1-coils...does that mean I can wire at quarter ohm final?

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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if you got the balls, haha.

i say go for it...but your electrical will hate you!

with my amps separate at 1ohm each i drop to 14.2(while driving) at full tilt.

when they were strapped at .25each i was dropping to 10.8 full tilt.....soooo...

but i kept the volume easy so i would only drop into the 13s and that was sill louder then them apart at 1ohm.

bbeljefe is running all 4 of his 1400.1s at .25 on his two EXO 18s. he's yet to have a issue.

you can only run @ .25 if you run a single amp.

strapping you'd be dumb Low (if .25 isn't already dumb low)

I say Try it now before you add the second amp, might just get you where you want. and

with your electrical (working correctly) you may be ok.

the majority of the time i see people running between .25/.33 they rise to .8/1ohm so id def give it a shot.

if you haven't broke your 150goal on 1amp yet I'm willing to bet dropping to a quarter will get you there.

jvc deck

stinger 1800 front

hc 2000 kinetic rear

2 runs of 1/0g

big 3/4

ct 60.4

2 ct 1400.1

ct EXO 15 d1

lots of deadner

type r comps front stage

6 kicker tweets rear stage

lots of great stuff

coming soon

ho alt

more bats

ct comps for front stage

more deadner

sweet amp rack

lots of L.E.D lights

new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)

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Hey ya fucks, here is a video from tonight. This is door open on a song that only gets into the mid 30s as far as I know ;)

Enjoy:

P.S. I had couple beers and don't know why, but I was a bit twitchy :P

Her hair is moving but the BWW box on the dash isn't.. must have had a fan behind her.

I kid. That's pretty kick ass with the door open bro :D

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So my alternator MAY be wanting to take a shit :(

I've gotten a BATTERY NOT CHARGING alert on my instrument cluster a couple times since after last night. I'm not sure what's up but it's charging now. So it's intermittent at this point but whatever it is giving me a problem won't likely go away on its own. I might have to send this thing to Singer to take a look at it.

could be user error.. check that plug and wiggle the wire. could be that the plug or wire is loose

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Hey ya fucks, here is a video from tonight. This is door open on a song that only gets into the mid 30s as far as I know ;)

Enjoy:

P.S. I had couple beers and don't know why, but I was a bit twitchy :P

more videos of chick

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is the alternator internal regulated or is it regulated by the ecm?

if its internally regulated and there is nothing wrong with it its an easy fix. i have made many alternator work by wiring direct to an ignition wire. sometimes you need a diode or a light bulb to make it work.. someone ripped all my wiring on my truck and took the alt wiring with it too. when i got my singer alt with plug i just wired it direct and its charging and has not missed a beat

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is the alternator internal regulated or is it regulated by the ecm?

if its internally regulated and there is nothing wrong with it its an easy fix. i have made many alternator work by wiring direct to an ignition wire. sometimes you need a diode or a light bulb to make it work.. someone ripped all my wiring on my truck and took the alt wiring with it too. when i got my singer alt with plug i just wired it direct and its charging and has not missed a beat

My year is internally regulated. The fix here is to send it back to Singer and have HIM do the work that he warranties. It will also give me an excuse to have him paint it. I'm not going to manipulate the alt on any way.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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you dont manipulate it in no way. he sends a plug with the blue lead. that lead you wire it to an ignition source. you will still get the no charging light though. to avoid that you tap into the stock wire and wire it to the ignition. the rest stay the same. i doubt the alternator has gone bad so its either that the plug is loose or the wire in it has come loose which you will have to fix it by splicing it and putting a new one. i do hope you tested with a dmm when the light was on and was sure it was not charging.. other possibilities could be belt slip. bad tensioner or kept stock length belt

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you dont manipulate it in no way. he sends a plug with the blue lead. that lead you wire it to an ignition source. you will still get the no charging light though. to avoid that you tap into the stock wire and wire it to the ignition. the rest stay the same. i doubt the alternator has gone bad so its either that the plug is loose or the wire in it has come loose which you will have to fix it by splicing it and putting a new one. i do hope you tested with a dmm when the light was on and was sure it was not charging.. other possibilities could be belt slip. bad tensioner or kept stock length belt

He will be FIXING this alt, there is no adding anything for me to "make it work" or bypassing a charging light. If it's a bad plug, I'll fix the plug with a new one.

As far as the tensioner goes, that's something that is definitely needed. I was gonna wait until the duals are in since I know the added strain would definitely need one.

I did test with a DMM and it was showing no output, so that was covered. It is working again, but I don't know for how long. I want Singer to paint the alt at the very least and if the regulator is bad, he can replace it. If it's a bad plug on the truck, I'll fix that. The tensioner though, good call it needs done.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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