B.E.N Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 So my buddy has been wanting to do more upgrades to his current setup. Currently, It's a 2002 Honda Accord EX, its got the F23A1 motor. Alpine cde-134bt head unit Rockford 152-s components 2 Alpine type S 12's Dual 4's ran at 1ohm Rockford r750-1d Rockford 250x4 What the plans are, 2 Sundown sa15's or 4 sa12's Crescendo BC2000d And possibly another set of components My question is, for beefing up the electrical battery wise, we were going to do 1 or 2 optima yellow tops group 31a's which at my cost I can get dirt cheap, and im not sure how I would like to run power to the rear batteries, should I do runs off the front battery to the rear? or should I go from the alt to the rear batteries, im thinking option 2 because I don't want to end up killing either of the batteries from hooking the front to the rear, and ive heard horror stories from using isolators also I myself think that 2 optima yellow top 31a's will be more than enough electrical to supply to the amps, but my buddy thinks he wants to upgrade the alt to probably a mechman or singer, ive never done a HO on a Honda so I didn't know if id have any issues with the ELD or not, and how to bypass that or what the Honda people do on here? Any advice on options I have or how to go with this is mucho appreciado!
TRON Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 What's the question? Do you want to know what to do or what to buy? Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s
OrzechNJ Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 If its a 2.3L v4 I got an alternator for him... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/16-for-sale-car-audio-related-equipment-only/ sometimes Loud is NOT pretty Sounds like its safe to go ahead and bend that ass over.
B.E.N Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 Sorry when I was doing the OP I accidentally hit submit before I finished writing it, its updated now
OrzechNJ Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 two runs from alt would be better.. one to front battery and then to back batteries and one straight from alt to rear bank... I used to have 2000 Accord SE and after upgrading to Singer my voltage was usually between 14-14.3.. never dropped below 13.5 after a long time of playing on idle.. sometimes Loud is NOT pretty Sounds like its safe to go ahead and bend that ass over.
B.E.N Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 two runs from alt would be better.. one to front battery and then to back batteries and one straight from alt to rear bank... I used to have 2000 Accord SE and after upgrading to Singer my voltage was usually between 14-14.3.. never dropped below 13.5 after a long time of playing on idle.. Did you bypass the ELD to get your voltage in the 14's?
Swordlordboy1234 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 1 run is plenty for that system with a alternator under 300 amps (which wouldn't be possible anyways because the biggest for your car is a DC 270xp). OFC 1/0. Best thing you could do is find the best ground. In my 96 accord it was the front and rear strut towers. ELD bypass is not needed, Just make sure you have your AC or your heater on at all times. Done. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
OrzechNJ Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 no bypass needed.. just plug and play my stock alt was keeping voltage in 14+ sometimes Loud is NOT pretty Sounds like its safe to go ahead and bend that ass over.
B.E.N Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah I know that if you turn on any electrical accessory that's controlled by the computer it will turn the ELD and charge into the 14's instead of 13's I was just curious mainly if people actually took the time to bypass the ELD or not, that's the biggest thing in decided whether we go bigger on the alt or not, but it looks like from what you guys are saying and what I was already thinking about, was just doing a run off the alt, to the rear batteries, but im excited to get the yellow top 31's they retail at $260 a piece I believe and I can get them for significantly less which will be awesome when we decide to run even more power, which I glad you guys gave me that info, cause that helps me also when I get around to rebuilding my civic
Kyblack76 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 edit,.. nvm ill ask later in my own post SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
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