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With a typical 2-way Viper set up, is it possible to wire the alarm/siren to the car audio battery in the back of my vehicle? After realizing that after they cut the power battery up front, all hope is lost, I'd like to run those components to get power from my car audio battery, as well as install a siren in the cabin, possibly right under the dash or under a seat. Just to annoy and deafen a would be their long enough for me to potentially shoot them.

I'd also like the GPS module to be wired to the back up battery.

Learning Everyday.

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just get the backup battery from DEI. As soon as they cut the factory wire/disconnect the alarms pos/neg leads.. the alarm goes off. Thats what my installer said at least.

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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You just have to have power to the vehicle still. Not just the alarm.the sei back up works but there are other ways

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You just have to have power to the vehicle still. Not just the alarm.the sei back up works but there are other ways

Yes.. I want to focus on this part.

Heres the way I see it.. The alarm "sees" that the door is open by sensing the door ajar/dome light circuit, right? If the battery is disconnected completely, the light will never light up and that circuit will never be completed.

As a result, I don't see how wiring to the back batteries would solve your "worry." For your way to work, you'd need to wire the door ajar/dome light circuit to the rear battery.. and that'll probably end in a nightmare.. Also, think about when you plan to redo your battery rack. Ehh..

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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Here's what my thought process of, as another guy who has the same car told me this is how his car was stolen one of the three times:

they climbed under the car, popped the hood/hit the latch, the disconnected the battery (not sure if they just cut the ground or what). Then they towed the car out of his backyard.

I am completely aware that my car can be stolen, I just would like to create a scenario where the alarm always go off to at least give me a warning. Even if it only last for 10 seconds before they manage to shut it off.

I thought the back up battery would essentially function as any other battery. I might as well get a proximity sensor then.

Learning Everyday.

Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD

Alpine SPS-610C

BXI-2008D

(2) SWR-1242D / Ported

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