n8ball2013 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Colossus isn't 6.5k either unless they've put out a new model. It's always been 3200 THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 what is you voltage when you are palying it hard and deff check the ground and what year is that amp I am not sure the voltage that is at them amplifier but if I would have to guess I would say it is not dropping to low, I have a battery within a foot and a half form the amplifier with 0 gauge running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Colossus isn't 6.5k either unless they've put out a new model. It's always been 3200 That is correct, the colossus is a 3200 but advertised as a 6.5k dual mono amplifier with a 2 channel at 1 ohms or 1 channel at 2 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 If you have 1 sub, and a 2 ch amplifier, you can either wire each coil up on it's own channel. OR only use one of the channels on the amp with the sub in parallel. Pretty sure those subs aren't rated for 6k so I would just use one channel wiring parallel. I wouldn't even wire a channel per coil unless you have a proper way to gain match the channels. or w/e it's called edit: those subs are rated for 1.5k. and nate said that is 1600w x2 so I would just wire to one channel. tuned properly of course. or wire each coil to it's own channel and make sure they are gained matched. See if someone near you has a cc.1/dd.1 I have two subwoofers. That is why I have them wired in parallel. I have each sub run parallel so they are down to 1 ohm and into one channel which is rated at 1 ohm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Instead of wiring to .33, just wire it to 1.3 and call it a day Save the low wiring until you get another amp to match the one you have or a better quality amp that is stable at lower impudence. Edit: wait, its a 2 channel amp? Impedance issue. Wire higher... The impedance as of now is running at 1 ohm per channel. Each channel is rated at 1 ohm. I could wire both the subwoofers together and create an impedance of 2 ohm and bridge the amplifier which is rated at 2 ohms. Either way the impedance is not an issue, I believe the problem lies within the power of the amplifier itself. As of now, the power portion is not an issue but I do believe that the ground may be. The ground as of now is going from the second battery in my trunk a ground on a fuse box under my back seat. I think this may be the issue here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 If you have 1 sub, and a 2 ch amplifier, you can either wire each coil up on it's own channel. OR only use one of the channels on the amp with the sub in parallel. Pretty sure those subs aren't rated for 6k so I would just use one channel wiring parallel. I wouldn't even wire a channel per coil unless you have a proper way to gain match the channels. or w/e it's called edit: those subs are rated for 1.5k. and nate said that is 1600w x2 so I would just wire to one channel. tuned properly of course. or wire each coil to it's own channel and make sure they are gained matched. See if someone near you has a cc.1/dd.1 I have two subwoofers. That is why I have them wired in parallel. I have each sub run parallel so they are down to 1 ohm and into one channel which is rated at 1 ohm No, you have 2 channels on your amplifier. So when you wire each coil in parallel. You are seeing 1 ohm (technically .7 ohm) per sub. Then you wire those subs together in parallel then you see .35 ohm total. If you were to "bridge" the channels together you would then see .175 ohm per channel on that amp. Wire each sub in parrallel. Put each on it's own channel and call it a day. If it still protects it is because it doesn't like seeing .7ohm. edit: granted you have a good CLEAN SECURE ground. Not ghetto crimped with pliers. Hydraulic crimp or soldier. Also make sure you have sufficient voltage for it as well. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 If you have 1 sub, and a 2 ch amplifier, you can either wire each coil up on it's own channel. OR only use one of the channels on the amp with the sub in parallel. Pretty sure those subs aren't rated for 6k so I would just use one channel wiring parallel. I wouldn't even wire a channel per coil unless you have a proper way to gain match the channels. or w/e it's called edit: those subs are rated for 1.5k. and nate said that is 1600w x2 so I would just wire to one channel. tuned properly of course. or wire each coil to it's own channel and make sure they are gained matched. See if someone near you has a cc.1/dd.1 I have two subwoofers. That is why I have them wired in parallel. I have each sub run parallel so they are down to 1 ohm and into one channel which is rated at 1 ohm No, you have 2 channels on your amplifier. So when you wire each coil in parallel. You are seeing 1 ohm (technically .7 ohm) per sub. Then you wire those subs together in parallel then you see .35 ohm total. If you were to "bridge" the channels together you would then see .175 ohm per channel on that amp. Wire each sub in parrallel. Put each on it's own channel and call it a day. If it still protects it is because it doesn't like seeing .7ohm. There was a miscommunication. With the subwoofers separate, ran in parallel would drop them to 1 ohm which is correct which is how it is now ran into 1 channel on the amplifier. Each subwoofer is independent of each other as of now and are ran into separate channels on the amplifier. If I were to bridge the amplifier I would have to do a combination of parallel and series wiring to keep the subwoofers at 2 ohms. THIS IS NOT HOW THINGS ARE RUN. That being said I would agree is the amp doesn't like seeing the .7 ohms or whatever it is then yes it will go into protect mode. That being said, I am not having a problem just getting the amplifier to power the subwoofers but the problem begins when running at a high volume. The amp starts to cut and shuts now. Could this be a tell tale sign of a bad ground? It only cuts when some major power is being pulled out of the amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 How did you do your ground? i.e. ring terminal, how did you put ring terminal on Did you clean the grounding spot? Where is it grounded at? seat belt bolt, frame, random piece of metal in trunk that is probably paper thin? How did you set your gains? Maybe it is clipping the hell out of them and that is why it protects. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcilluffo2 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 How did you do your ground? i.e. ring terminal, how did you put ring terminal on Did you clean the grounding spot? Where is it grounded at? How did you set your gains? Maybe it is clipping the hell out of them and that is why it protects. The ground is run off the second battery via a 4 gauge wire with a ring terminal that was pressed then soldered. That then ran to a ground on a fuse box that is under my back seat. The grounding spot was clean in the first case, it was a fuse block so no paint or anything. As far as I know, the fuse block ground is straight to the sheet metal on the bottom of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Whether or not that 4 gauge is your issue. I would replace it to 1/0 pronto. I wouldn't trust 4 gauge to ground a 3k amp no matter how short the run. How about your positive run to the back? Did you use stock? I really want to know your voltage drop. Do you have a multimeter? Read your voltage at the amp right before it cuts out. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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