Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 thats how i also was able to test everything once i blew the first fuse. i wired everything to how it was setup prior to the back battery was installed. everything worked fine. of course i didnt do a stress test and turned my amps up or anything..but everything was okay. im a little stumped cause i know i have everything connected fine. to my knowledge that is. but im pretty sure im missing something. i JUST went and followed all my wiring to see if there were any frayed wires that might be touching...nothing. everything looks okay. ..maybe i have to do a wire from negative front to negative back and then ground the negative back? cause thats what i didnt do?..what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 thats how i also was able to test everything once i blew the first fuse. i wired everything to how it was setup prior to the back battery was installed. everything worked fine. of course i didnt do a stress test and turned my amps up or anything..but everything was okay. im a little stumped cause i know i have everything connected fine. to my knowledge that is. but im pretty sure im missing something. i JUST went and followed all my wiring to see if there were any frayed wires that might be touching...nothing. everything looks okay. ..maybe i have to do a wire from negative front to negative back and then ground the negative back? cause thats what i didnt do?..what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 No need to isolate your batteries. How is the front battery grounded? When you say components, you mean amps right? You should invest In a DMM. It's a necessity when installing car audio. I really recommend doing that ASAP. the front battery is grounded to the chassis. any recommendations on a good dm?...and yes i do mean amps. sorry just so used to saying components. ive seen a lot of people NOT use a fuse for the back battery. although this freaks me out a little, one of the folks i talked to earlier said that i had too many fuses. i dont really see how this could be a problem but do you guys think it could actually BE an issue?...should i maybe try WITHOUT a fuse close to the back battery?.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 No don't do that. Sounds like you either have polarity backwards or a short somewhere. Take the +wire out and make sure it isn't cut any where or that there aren't any stray wire strands sticking out somewhere. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 so from what I read it's set up like below Alt positive to Battery Front battery positive to rear battery Front battery ground to frame Rear battery ground to frame rear battery.positive to fused distro Distro to positive on amps Rear battery negative to distro Distro to negative on amps Fuses 12" from both the batteries on the front to back run fuses on the positive distro to the amps. Which fuse is blowing? The issue will be with the write that the fuse keeps popping on. IMO remove all fuses before connecting wires and reinstall fuses last. Prevents power from going through the write while connecting them and could save your life. Check the back battery by disconnecting it from everything and running a fused positive to the positive of an amp then a negative to the amp turn on the stereo (so the remote wire tells the amp to turn on) and see what happens. If the fuse pops then my beat is the battery is the issue. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 well the good thing is, its not any of the fuses up under the hood that are blowing. the only fuses that are blowing are in the trunk. so the first time i tried to connect everything, one of the fuses on my distributor for the positive side blew. just one. the second time i tried it, the fuse for the positive wire coming from the front blew. im thinking of ditching the distributor and just going with regular anl fuse holders. ive never used distributors before but figured this time around id give em a shot. but really that couldnt be an issue. in the back ive got the amps going directly to the negative side of the battery instead of being grounded to the frame. so essentially the distributors are positive to positive negative to negative. should i maybe try to do negative to frame instead of negative to negative?? what does everyone else have? or how does everyone else have it hooked up. i mean my setup is probably very simple compared to all of yours but im pretty sure the initial setup would be the same no?..maybe a diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonDCXL Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 +front---fuse----------------------------------------------------+back----fuse------------------amp + - grond to frame - ground to frame--------------amp-(ground) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonDCXL Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 if anything was wrong with the run from front to back battery you would know because um well the up front fuse would blow or the car would catch on fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pa-pa-platypus Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 have you tried hooking everything else up without hooking the amps up? basically just hook your back battery up without having the runs to the amps.. give that a try This isn't teeball. YOU DO NOT GET A TROPHY JUST BECAUSE YOU SHOW UP. Put the work in and then maybe get the respect when it has been earned 151.6 with single 12 at 41 hz 153.2 with 2 12's at 43 hz power: dd m4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manong Mark Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 +front---fuse----------------------------------------------------+back----fuse------------------amp + - grond to frame - ground to frame--------------amp-(ground) so i DONT need to fuse the positive line to the amps?..... have you tried hooking everything else up without hooking the amps up? basically just hook your back battery up without having the runs to the amps.. give that a try i will give that a shot. but in which series should i do this. hook up the back battery first and THEN the front? like....trunk - negative then positive, then hop over to the front then do negative then positive? or vice versa? or do the negatives first and then the positives?... a lot of my concern is also the order of which to hook things up. prior to me getting these batteries and doing the big three, i was under the impression that it didnt matter the order in which to take the terminals off of the battery ...now im very careful when it comes to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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