DTA HONDA Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 I just bought a 2012 cummins and i want to put my 2 SA 12s in it.. What adapter do i need to run my amp off the factory electrical? 2012 Ram 3500. HTT 2nd Gen manifold Swap, HTT s465 Turbo, FASS 150, 6" S&B Intake, 5" TBE, RaceMe programmer, 8 inch tip (dumped over axle) 20x12s on 35s, 6 inch lift, Color match & haloed headlights, 30" lightbar flush mounted in bumper. 2 Sundown audio SD-2 12s and a Soundqubed Q1-1200d amp. 2000 s10 xtreme *SOLD*
walwalka Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Are you wanting keep the factory radio as well? If you want to add a 4 channel down the road I would purchase a processor of some type. Ideal would be a 360.3 but if you wanted to go a little cheaper, you could use a good quality 6 channel line output converter. like the audio control lc6i. As far as running the power wire, it is just like any other truck. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin
Guest Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/ampkits-step1.html
DTA HONDA Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Posted March 30, 2014 Are you wanting keep the factory radio as well? If you want to add a 4 channel down the road I would purchase a processor of some type. Ideal would be a 360.3 but if you wanted to go a little cheaper, you could use a good quality 6 channel line output converter. like the audio control lc6i. As far as running the power wire, it is just like any other truck. Yea i want to keep it stock. With those would i have to cut the speaker wires? 2012 Ram 3500. HTT 2nd Gen manifold Swap, HTT s465 Turbo, FASS 150, 6" S&B Intake, 5" TBE, RaceMe programmer, 8 inch tip (dumped over axle) 20x12s on 35s, 6 inch lift, Color match & haloed headlights, 30" lightbar flush mounted in bumper. 2 Sundown audio SD-2 12s and a Soundqubed Q1-1200d amp. 2000 s10 xtreme *SOLD*
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Yeah using a LOC(Line out Converter) you will have to splice the factory wire to put into the device which then will go to your processor or amplifiers. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
DTA HONDA Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Posted March 30, 2014 Yeah using a LOC(Line out Converter) you will have to splice the factory wire to put into the device which then will go to your processor or amplifiers. So something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SGN11-Fixed-Line-Out-Converter-/161238495931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258a9032bb 2012 Ram 3500. HTT 2nd Gen manifold Swap, HTT s465 Turbo, FASS 150, 6" S&B Intake, 5" TBE, RaceMe programmer, 8 inch tip (dumped over axle) 20x12s on 35s, 6 inch lift, Color match & haloed headlights, 30" lightbar flush mounted in bumper. 2 Sundown audio SD-2 12s and a Soundqubed Q1-1200d amp. 2000 s10 xtreme *SOLD*
walwalka Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 Yes but I would advise going with at least an audio control lc2i as the cheap ones induce lots of distortion. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin
727Designs Posted April 2, 2014 Report Posted April 2, 2014 I really like the PAC SOEM-T for a simple unit. the AudioControl unit above works well also. -Zach-2010 Toyota TundraFull Hybrid Audio SQ 7" BDS on 37's 2000 Ford Expedition 160+ dB Green Turd -SOLD-
DTA HONDA Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Posted April 3, 2014 Yes but I would advise going with at least an audio control lc2i as the cheap ones induce lots of distortion. Im going with the lc2i and a fox box for 2 12s. 2012 Ram 3500. HTT 2nd Gen manifold Swap, HTT s465 Turbo, FASS 150, 6" S&B Intake, 5" TBE, RaceMe programmer, 8 inch tip (dumped over axle) 20x12s on 35s, 6 inch lift, Color match & haloed headlights, 30" lightbar flush mounted in bumper. 2 Sundown audio SD-2 12s and a Soundqubed Q1-1200d amp. 2000 s10 xtreme *SOLD*
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