RowdyMoody Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I did my big 3 a couple days ago. Since doing so my amp has started going into protect mode when I turn my volume up, however it doesn't always go into protect mode when I turn it up just some times. I am not sure why it is doing this. It wasn't doing it before I did the big 3. Also the only way I can get my bass back is to turn the car off then back on. Turning the volume down (for any length of time) does not bring it back on. I am wondering if maybe it is doing it because now that I have added bigger wire to my big 3, the amp is able to draw more power from my electrical system which is too much for my 130A alternator and battery to handle? Not certain if that would make the amp go into protect though : / I know I need to upgrade from my stock alternator and battery (those are next on my list of upgrades), and in the meantime I have turned my gain down on my amp to remedy it. But I am just curious what might be going on? I sanded all of my connections and they are all tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 What equipment are you running? Do you have any volt meter running while you drive so you can read your voltage? Let us know that type of info, will better help us help you. What equipment, amp and subs. Any volt meter in the car, Any and all batteries and type of Alt. What size wire, and what wires did you replace exactly. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 i dont see a B3 upgrade having anything to do with a amplifer protect. Unless you fucked up somthing and its DROPPING voltage. Meter time. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 i dont see a B3 upgrade having anything to do with a amplifer protect. Unless you fucked up somthing and its DROPPING voltage. Meter time. That's what I am thinking is happening, He did the big 3. ANd now his amplifier is able to have a stronger current draw and the voltage is dropping to low and going into protect. Only way I could see a Big 3 doing this. Maybe unless in the process, he didn't properly tighten a ground in the engine bay, and now it rattles and half shorts out putting the amp into protect. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 List of car, and gear. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyMoody Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I have a 12" Fi BTL UFO style, powered by an Alpine MRX-M240. It is wired to a 4ohm load for 1500 RMS. I am using 4 gauge wire all around, except my speaker wire which is 8 gauge. I did choose to use 4 gauge on my big 3 as well just because I know I will not be expanding or increasing my power in the future, and my runs are all short. My alt + to batt + was just about 1'6" so was my alt case to chassis ground, the batt - to chassis ground was a 5" run. I did not "replace" any of the wires, just added to the existing. I guess it is possible that I messed something up because I have never done the big 3 before. My alternator is a stock 130A alternator, and the battery is just an everyday run of the mill carquest battery. Unfortunately my car is not equipped with a volt meter so I cannot watch to see voltage drops when I turn up the volume. And I do not have a DMM though I can easily get ahold of one. *EDIT* figured I should add that my car is a 97' Mercury Cougar XR7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 How long is the run to the back of the car? Depending on the length of the run, 4awg might not be enough to carry the draw over a certain distance. Not saying that is the cause just something to think about in regards to efficiency. Double check over all your connections, make sure everything is tight and secure. I would highly suggest getting ahold of a DMM and watching the voltage while you listen to the car. If it get's below 12V then that is bad. Most batteries rest around 12.8v, while listening to a system, if you reach under 13v you alternator is not longer able to supply the full of what the system is calling for so it then dips into your battery. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyMoody Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I had to use the entire length of power wire that was included in the kit I bought. I believe it was 17ft long. When I do get a DMM to check voltage, I put the probes on each post of the battery while turning up my volume, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I had to use the entire length of power wire that was included in the kit I bought. I believe it was 17ft long. When I do get a DMM to check voltage, I put the probes on each post of the battery while turning up my volume, correct? Yeah, if It's 17ft I think 2awg would be way better for 1500 watts. Yeah that's what you would do, red one on the positive and black one on the negative. What I used to do with mine, was run the probes under my hood, put them on so they stay on. Then rest the DMM on my windshield so I could read it from the inside and adjust the volume. Or have 2 people works also. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 edit: nvm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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