Need Parts List For S10 Air Ride

[bibby>Chode]

Tomorrow i am trading my civic for a 97 s10 SS. Yea, i didnt even know they made those, i ahd to google it. crazy. Anyways. I need to know what all parts i need to bag it. i know i need a c notch, and 4 bags, and braackets. but what else will i need to make it lay frame. I will be on stock wheels for now, so i'm not accomodating for larger wheels. atleast for now.

I know i will need bags, and a notch for the rear. I'm also sure u need brackets for the rear bags to mount to. How does the front work? do the bags jsut sit in there, or do i have to have brackets for them to mount up? will i need to do any modifying besides taking out the springs/shocks, and putting the bag in?

If you guys can link me to some build pics, that'd be great. i need to see how this works exactly.

Thanks!

[bibby>Chode]

Will this work as far as brackts and notch is concerned?

http://suicidedoors.com/S10BagBracketKit.php

Then i jsut need bags right?

[sur13_arvin]

u may need to sign up on here... but alot of great people will to help u out..

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/baggin-it/

[droopy89]

Will this work as far as brackts and notch is concerned?

http://suicidedoors.com/S10BagBracketKit.php

Then i jsut need bags right?

thats basically it, but thats kinda a cheepy way,, Ive been considering this front set up for a while, you would just weld the bag brackets to the stock control arms, and your need 2in. drop spindles to lay the front out.

http://suicidedoors.com/S10FrontSpecial.php

any more questions, just ask away and ill help the best i can

[Aaron813]

Here is a 4 link kit for it 4 link her are the tubular a arms contral arms and here is the notches notches

[Big P]

That bracket kit will work ok. The rides gonna be stiff very stiff and most likely shitty if your new to this you can ad there bolt in 3 link as well which is ok but not that great ether. BUT!! You can do like I did and put the bags on the bars with the kit.

ALL links that raise your gas tank do not raise the front of the gas tank and your tank one way or another will hit the ground

To do it right your looking at some serous work. But any thing that comes easy usaly isnt worth having, right.

as far as hard wear your gonna need

triangulated 4 link www.barelylegalfabrication.com these guys make a good 4 link you can trust get the parallel then you can cut the top bars down for your needs. Make sure you tell them your "putting the bags on the bars"

the SD bracket kit http://suicidedoors.com/S10BagBracketKit.php you need to tell them that you need the bottom bag brackets for the rear cut to the diameter of your 4 link bars. Also tell them to replace the bottom shock mounts with "Bridge Bar Shock Tabs"

as for as parts go

4 Slam Specialties RE 7's http://suicidedoors.com/SlamSpecialtiesRE2...ISinglePort.php RE 6's are to small

1 avs rocker switch box http://avsontheweb.com/ there sites down at the moment. Rocker switches give you tons more control get the one with the extra relay box you'll thank me when your wiring your valves

2 dual needle gauges 200 pluss psi the gauges dont matter to much so shop around and get something you like dont get 150 psi

Viair 480C Dual Pack http://www.fbirides.com/product.asp?idno=271319 this thing is the shit it makes 2 big red compressors look plain silly and its cheaper. get the 200 psi pressure switch. I ditched my big red for 4 of these.

you need 2 rear shocks for a 1984 toyota truck 22R motor

1/0 for the comps and some thing small for your valves im useing turn on lead lol

giant box of self taping screws

I dont know what there called but there small loops with black rubber I got them from ace hardware and used them to rout every thing. Ill get a pic later

a few feet of fuel injection fuel line

then a few feet of non pressurized fuel line length depends on were you move your gas tank.

8 valves 1/2 inch most people tend to like parker and smc im useing E air Valve mac daddies

FBI makes a bracket for mounting your valves in the front of your truck but you have to call them and ask for it. Tell Dan Josh from Built2Rail and Forgotten souls says Dan is sexy

air tank 1 7 gallon will be fine http://www.fbirides.com/product.asp?idno=8051

Buy your air line and fittings from FBI Dans a cool kat tell him what your running and were and how your mounting every thing and he will help you pick every thing out.

Some 2x4 square stock

I probably missed a few things not sure tho

heres a few tips on installing every thing

Your gonna need to move your gas tank if you leave your gas tank sit for a lil while empty your fuel pump will rust and go bad. Id put the tank in the bed unless you can afford a gas tank from devious customs

you dont need any shocks for the front

here you can see how i modified the bag over axle bracket to put the bag on my 4 link.

when you pic your spot for the bag just make sure its befor or after bar center and youll be fine. The closer to the cab the softer and bouncier it is.

This is were one of my friends so called friend put my gas tank. it sketches me out but so far so good it doesn't touch the ground ether

the cross member for the 4 link made out of thick ass 2 x 4 You might want stiffer bushings if you mount your 4 link like this

I cant find a good pic of the shocks in the rear but all we did was put the notch bar in front then ran the shocks off the bar down to the upper 4 link bars.

the front bags are going to need to be offset 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch just tell the folks at SD your running RE7s on a s10. Dont forget to get SD bolt in cups nothing else will work properly in your truck unless you weld them in and thats just stupid.

Your going to have to move your brake lines in the front were it goes from hard to soft at each wheel. Just bend the tab in the back rotate the line a bit then shoot a self taping screw in it after you bolt it back in. The bump stops need unbolted and removed as well as the sway bar. The spring cups up top need to be cut all to hell heres info on that http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/2600-22...ll-pics-166941/

theres 2 bolts in the top of the inner fender just replace those with soothe flat phlips head bolts from the hardware store.

Im sure a missed a ton of stuff but i need to get going hit me up if you have questions.

[EpicenterDesigns]

My post won't be as involved as BigP, but I will add as i think of it.

I have some different suggestions also.

For the front, you want to get 2" drop spindles. Suicide Doors bolt in cups and Slam Bags RE7's.

If you want to run shocks, Nissian Hardbody red shocks work in the fronts perfectly.

If you are gonna run stock sized tires for now, you may or may not need to dehump the lower control arms. If you do decide to get new tubular control arms, there are a few different companies making them. I have ART (air ride technologies) arms.

Bump stop removal and sway bar removal are also nessacary.

You may also have to remove the inner fenderwells. If that happens, you need to relocate some things under the hood and make new brackets.

For the rear, Suicide Doors has revamped their bolt in 3 link to include longer upper bars for better pionion angles and lift. I do beleive it brings the tank up more also, but not sure.

If you want to run bags on the bars for beter lift and ride, tell them that and they can hook you up with the proper lower bars and or gussets for them.

Or you can do a custom built 4 link using parts by them, or many other places.

If you want simple, do a 3 link, mount the bags below and behind the axel. For this, you can use sleeve bags or Slam Bags. Sleeve bags will ride smoother for this applications since they won't be as stiff.

Notch. You will need one. Suicide Doors makes a notch that will slide right over your frame after some slight trimming and all you have to do is level it and weld it. Or just get a standard 8 piece notch and put it together at whatever size wheel you plan on running.

I suggest planning the natch for a 20" wheel or bigger. You can do spacers on the bag plates to make up for lift as wheel sizes decrease or increase.

It is a pain in the ass to cut out a notch made only to lay on 17" wheels when you want to lay out on 22's. Not to mention money if you don't do it yourself.

Valves. I suggest SMC's but that is all I have ever used. 3/8 valves will move your truck plenty quick. I think you would get tired of 1/2" and possibly damage a radiator or something if your not to careful. I would use 3/8 valves and 1/2" line.

Slim and skinny 5 gallon tank would be my choice between the frame rails in the back. Maybe even a 7 gallon. The compressors BigP suggested are nice. Go with those.

You will have to modify the bed for the axel, notches and modify some crossmenbers for the driveshaft. Also may need to purchase a new tranny crossmember as the stock ones hang down lower than the frame.

And if you really have the big bucks, I think you can do this entire truck completely BOLT ON thru Suicide Doors if you have no welding experience or anyone who can weld handy.

So much for not being too involved.

Please don't do this if your not to sure. Don't want this to be your truck.. http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74894

Oh yeah, I also wanted to drop a place you could use for parts. www.streetissuecustoms.com His name is Doug and tell him Jon from EpicenterDesigns sent ya. He can get you anything you may need at a very good price. He is located up in Washington state.

[Big P]

yea I forgot the drop spindles you need drop spindle or you wont lay out and if you do for some reason you'll have tones of bad camber.

if its a extra cab your going to need to make or buy a new carrier bearing cross member as well your going to need to have your drive line shortened

your stock tires are the same size as a 20 so that means your going to have to tub the fire wall to. If you dont plan on running big rims just buy low pro tires and call it a day. You can always tub and relocate every thing later when you buy rims.

If your running a 20 with a banana slick or smaller you can get away with just dehumping your lower A arm. Theres a company now that makes a replacement kit for your upper ball joint. All you do is cut the hump out and weld in a flat piece of metal a 20 with a regular size tire will give you bad camber and your ball joints will start binding

[bibby>Chode]

thanks guys for the responses, but the s10 deal fell through. his truck ahd a lot of rust, so i didnt go for the trade.

However, i ams till looking for an s10, so thank you so much for the detailed responses.

Also, i have everything i need but bags/brackets/nothc/4link/spindles. I have a complete air setup for my honda, i just need the stuff to make it fit a s10.

[EpicenterDesigns]

Well while your looking for that s10, think about the AC.

Do you want to keep it or not.

If you wanna lay out on 20's, you will be losing the AC or doing alot of modifications to keep it. Or just get Hot Rod Air or Vintage Air set-ups.