afrakes Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 Maybe somebody here can help me expand my car audio knowledge. I'm just curious as to why I don't see more recommendations for subs like the Dayton Audio Ultimax when somebody is looking for crushing lows and doesn't know where to start. Found here: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um15-22-15-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-514 . This thing is sexy and from what I understand (correct me if I'm wrong) this beast is designed to play into the 18-20 hz range no problem. Do people not recommend these subs because of their price:power handling ratio? Or is it something else? Side note here, recommended box size ported (15") is 6.1-10.6 cubes net tuned to 18 hz?!?! does this effect the ability for the driver to play into the 40's and still perform well while doing so? Any input would be great, these subs just look amazing and are one of the few home audio based subs that i have personally seen in a D2 model. I want one. Is it worth is? Think it could handle 1200 rms?? Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
Joe X Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 6-11 cubes net for a 15" pretty much tells the story.
Kevin M Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 Ihere is a lot of fanboys. Not everybody is like this but we all have preferences. I run Dayton and have for a couple years. 2005 Ford Focus zx4 AMT's and Planars 18" Infinite baffle
Guest Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 6-11 cubes net for a 15" pretty much tells the story. specifications says 6-11 but description says Sealed 3.1 cubic ft. (net internal) with 3 lbs. of Acousta-Stuf polyfill, f3 of 35 Hz with a 0.707 Qtc alignment Vented 6.0 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver or port volume) with 6 lbs. of Acousta-Stuf tuned to 18 Hz with two 4" diameter by 26" long flared ports for an f3 of 22 Hz. Larger cabinets and lower tuning frequencies are possible.
afrakes Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Posted April 10, 2014 What's the difference between Fs, F3, and tuning? And can that driver still perform well in the higher notes? Sorry, I'm not too experienced with sub specs and knowing what they all mean. I understand how to tune and what it does, but how does the Fs and F3 effect all of this??? Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
bkolfo4 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Posted April 11, 2014 Keep in mind those recommended enclosure sizes are for maximum flat response in a home environment. Enclosure can be WAY smaller in a car. I use a lot Dayton drivers in installs. They are even nicer when you purchase them on a wholesale account! Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
Omega5002 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Posted April 11, 2014 You have to realize that the driver itself and the recommendations leans to Home Audio or Home Theater, which is why they say do 6 cubes tuned to 18hz, you don't have to do that in a car to play music, you can build the box to be 3.5-4.0 cubes tuned in the low 30's, and have it be musical. Reason they say to do 6 cubes is to get the f3 low enough to play the teens 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)
Joe X Posted April 11, 2014 Report Posted April 11, 2014 What's the difference between Fs, F3, and tuning? And can that driver still perform well in the higher notes? Sorry, I'm not too experienced with sub specs and knowing what they all mean. I understand how to tune and what it does, but how does the Fs and F3 effect all of this??? To use a sub designed for a different application you will have to ride on your own specs and come up with something unintended by the manufacturer that you will hopefully like.. so basically.. you are on your own, if you are comfortable with that then you go ahead but I am guessing not everyone is. F3 as calculated by traditional methods don't work inside a vehicle due to cabin gain and likely you can measure it but hardly calculate it with much accuracy, what usually occurs is that F3 will be much lower than predicted. Fs is one of the T/S parameters and by itself is insufficient to determine the behavior of the sub, you have to enter the full model to see what to expect.
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