kryptonite Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 If the motor goes, rip it out and put a 5.3 in there!! DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 If the motor goes, rip it out and put a 5.3 in there!! Already considering it. The weather is getting warmer, I can work in the garage now! But if I do....I'd have to redo the trans AGAIN. Or put it in the Camaro, and build that 4L60E with the red plates. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptonite Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 The 5.3 is backed by the 4l60 already, might just need an adapter to keep that tranny in there. Painless makes a wiring harness for the engine swap last I saw. The motor mounts used in the swap could use a redesign and you might need headers to clear the driver frame rail and the steering shaft but other than that, smooth sailing. DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Kyblack, if you are really serious about doing the door, here is a quick fix that I noticed AFTER I did my door. Bacjground: Originally I paid $50 for the welder to bring back the hinge to it's original position and weld it. He did not bring it back and instead he welded the hinge with the same gap as it was. Than I bought the kit to fix what he did not. So I have a better solution. Again, it wasn't til after did my aftermarket hinge, that I noticed it. More details on why the OEM fails. 2 things occur when dealing with these cheap GM door hinges. 1. The mounting welds break and the inner hinge will move away from the body. This happens because the door swings open and eventually rips the weld apart. Happened to me. 2. The brass insert breaks or wears down, than it's steel on steel, pin to mounting hole. The end result is an oblong hole. This requires a new hinge. If your hinges are ripping from the body, and the holes ARE NOT TOO BADLY OBLONGED, then you can 1. Remove the door and drill one hole directly into the center of the mount that is moving away from the body. It's best to use an ATV stand to go under the door. works great. 2. Move the door aside and drill through the center of the mount and into the body of the blazer. 3. Get a counter sink bit and an allen bolt, flat and concaved bolt to sit flush like the ones that come with this kit. 4. Remove the rubber weather boot and move the wires out of the way. 5.Have someone weld a bolt to a small metal plate like the one in the kit. 6. tape the plate to a hanger and feed it through the access hole. 7. Line everything up and tighten it down. 8. You're mount is now back to its original position. Again, if you're holes are oblonged at the pivot points, than you're s.o.l. Mine were not too oblong, and I should have done it this way to begin with! -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 The transmission is almost complete. I had to re-order the 3-4 L-ring piston o-ring. It will be here Monday. I tore the edge in a few places when I tried to install it. It's the only thing that is needed so I can put everything back in the bell housing. The Alto upgrade kit has 8 3/4 friction plates instead of the 6 for better torque and acceleration. The steel plates are thinner as well to compensate. I installed the Monster Sun shell since everyone recommended it on the Camaro forum over the hardened teeth version. Florida Torque Converter. The only thing I did not do were the 5 pinion sun gear upgrades. It's supposed to offer better longevity, better towing ability, and great for any increased horse power. When the Camaro trans needs attention, I will do the upgrade kit with all that is mentioned because I will be keeping the Camaro for a while. This transmission thing, is sorta hard, only because I never did it before. But it is rather straight forward! -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Forgot to mention, the only pain in the ass thing was the multiple copper bushing sleeves I had to remove and replace. So far I spent: $173.00 Alto clutch rebuild kit $25.00 Low Reverse spring retainer compressor tool $50.00 Monster Sun Shell $30.00 Koyo 5 piece bearing kit $64.00 Borg Warner Sprag Clutch Bearing $8.00 Transmission Assembly Lube ------------------------------------------- $350.00 so far for the transmission build up. $106.00 Florida Torque Converter I still need to review the valve body rebuild. This comes with the Alto kit, but want to see it I need any other parts. Or if the Alto kit is sufficient. So $456 invested...for a $1100 transmission body + converter. Plus I am saving the $1000 install. Even if I reach 1k, I'm still saving! Even the guy at the transmission parts counter told me "for $1000, they inspect the part and replace as needed. Yes they re-use parts". I rebuilt this transmission because I wanted new parts in it, like new bearings, upgrades friction pads, and the upgraded sun shell. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Don't pat yourself on the back until it's in and driving, many backyard mechanics have rebuilt a Trans only to find out it doesn't work when they get it installed. They are more fun getting them back in to. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Went ahead and replaced the input drum and piston seal. On closer examination the original input drum had a tiny raised area on it. Should be 100% flat. I did the input drum surface test-light test and it failed. Hiram's feeler gauge trick caused the first rip, this time I just lubed the seal and spun the piston several times until it seated itself. Worked like a charm! Now to NOT tweek this spring retainer. I thought about that as well. I already had to replace the low reverse retainer spring! I made a spacer to equally compress the spring on all sides. It worked! Saved $153 for a clutch retainer spring compressor. In the future I will just buy it. The trans should be in this weekend. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Progress thus far. First the Stator support copper bushing that came with the kit had a rather tight clearance. It would not allow the stator support to be installed, let alone spin on the input shaft. Here is the stator support inverted to show how tight the clearance is. Yup, the 7-8lb stator is being supported by the bushing! So I called Alto USA and the tech said "the bushing may need to be reamed". I took 150 emery cloth and spun the stator in my left hand a few times with the emery cloth on the bushing held by my right thumb. After 15-17 spins, she was able to slide onto the input shaft like the video's show. The transmission is now one piece. Stock 4L60E Endplay should be 0.015"-0.035" I have 0.76mm, which is 0.0299"!!!!! Just a shot of the home made stator support unit band for $3.50. It really worked! A real band is $30-$102 on Ebay. I purhcased the TransGo After Market Heavy Duty Separator plate since the O.E. plate was destroyed. I'm 75% done. Now the valve body! Once I'm done, my buddy Tony will hook me up with his transmission shop guy to actually bench test it on a machine! She's not going in this weekend, but progress is being made. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 This guy does a much better job explaining this stuff. I am at lesson 8 of 10, something like that! Now to get some well deserved Checkers! -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.