Jessica Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I have a 80 amp stock alt. I add a 1/0 run. 300 amp right? If you added a 300 amp fuse to it in line, it would NEVER break, until the WIRE and some of the car burnt....... Anyone with me here? i'm not. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I have a 80 amp stock alt. I add a 1/0 run. 300 amp right? If you added a 300 amp fuse to it in line, it would NEVER break, until the WIRE and some of the car burnt....... Anyone with me here? i'm not. Me neither. This would only be the case if your car had no batteries in it...as soon as the vehicle shorts, your battery is going to send out a ton of current and that surge is what will pop your fuse. Even if its a 300 amp fuse with 80 charging. Your battery has enough energy stored in it to break the circuit. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 There are some serious issue in the OP no one is even asking about. 1. Does the OP have a second battery in the back? 2. Is he going to run this 3500 of stock electrical? 3. What ohm is load is he wiring to? Kyle, I agree with some of your points. Yes, fusing for wire isnt the only answer. Yes, running say a 200 amp fuse on each run will be fine for the OP's situation. No, your 1/0 with a 300 amp fuse will not burn just cause you have an 80 amp alternator. The alt might die in a fire trying to keep up if it isnt fused, but that wire will be just fine. I figure i want go into to much stuff until those 3 questions there get answered Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Think about a battery's cranking amps rating it'll pop most any fuses you want to throw at it... My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakmagic Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I thought for the big 3 alt to battery + , you rate your fuse for the cable your using and not the alternator output. As in it's the cable you are protecting? If your setup required much more amps than your alternator could supply, your alternator is just still going to put out its max amps that its rated for? I don't see how the fuse protects the alternator? 97 Buick LeSabre with stock 140 amp alternator XS Power D3400 (under the hood) using pdb distro blocks Big 3 done with 2/0 ga welding cable Alpine CDE-HD149BT head unit CT Sounds Meso 6.5" components CT Sounds 60.4 CT Sounds 1400.1 Fi Q 12 D2 with cooling in 2.5 net tuned @32 hz (box built by Sound Mekanix Customs) Bunch of Sky High 1/0 ga & 4 ga cable (plus fuse holders) Connection BT2 & BT4 550 (Audison) RCA's Bunch of Mojo Mat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I agree you fuse for the wire, but I also like to fuse for the amp itself. So I'll fuse for the wire close to the voltage souce(batt) and then I fuse for the amp close to the amp side since the larger amps don't have an on amp fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 How common is it that people on this site fuse between under hood battery and alternator on the positive? 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeez Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I don't use alt side, my thought process is I can shut the car off and the alt will stop producing voltage, the batt will always produce voltage if it has capacity in it, even if the vehicle is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsfm089 Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 As of right now I have no extra battery's in the back and I'm not going to be running the 3500 till I can buy one I just want to set it up where it will be very easy to upgrade i will be running a aq2200 till I can get the 3500. I just really need to know where to start with the fuses. The aq2200 says it needs to be fused with a 380amp fuse so should I split that between the two runs or go like 250amp fuse on each run. For now it does seem like over kill to put a 350amp fuse on each line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsfm089 Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Sorry 1ohm stock electrical for now(big three done) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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