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Updated 3/20/15, Fanaticz shows his Hoe some love finally... Spring is here back to work!


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Do you have any specific place where you buy your recone supplies from?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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you would need a High Pressure Sodium lamp.

Yea I have wanted one of those for years :mexsmoke:

CFLs bruh

CFLs are not strong enough, wattage wise, Steve tried them and they took a while, along with a few others.

My 2 48inch bulbs are 40watts each, so a great bit more than a CFL bulb at 13watts.

You need a strong light source with in the 385-410nm.

UV doesnt always mean black light, there are many types of bulbs for various uses that are not black lights such as floral grow lamps, reptile, and bird lamps that are uva or uvb.

Its not really the black light that makes it cure, its the uva and uvb, however for a bulb to put out uvb it automatically means it puts out uva as well from my understanding

Something that would work really well is a 400 watt UV Cannon from American Dj. http://www.adj.com/uv-canon

Part of the reason it took so long is I had the light pretty far away, and the uva-uvb gets reduced drastically the farther it gets moved away. So having the light a few feet above the panel wasnt the ideal way, the center directly under the light cured fairly fast, however around the edges is what took longer due to it being even farther from the light source.

Do you have any specific place where you buy your recone supplies from?

Depends on what Im reconing and what is needed or wanted done.

 

 

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So if you were to recone subs ....surround and spider and dust caps. What glues would you use? I'm having trouble finding the correct adhesives.

E6000 I've learned wasn't the best choice, and I'm considering 3400lb epoxy now for everything except the dust cap.

Any thoughts?

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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Share on other sites

Not the correct CA to use for woofers, there is specially formulated ca that is rubber toughened semi-flexible glue and foam safe.

Mobile Solutions glue is just relabeled FastCap Adhesives.

FastCap is decent glue, but its just not for the right purpose. I sure wouldn't use it for my woofers, but that's just me.

I buy my glue direct from an undisclosed company which I wont name, but even if you found out the company you would have a hard time finding the model since its not listed on their site. A few audio companies use this same glue (fi being one of them which is why I linked to Fi).

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