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2nd Battery in Rear


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Getting ready to install a second battery and wanted to check if this is right (I did several searches and got several different answers so I'm posting here).

(this is all 1/0) *Big 3 also done.

batt pos (+) in front to fuse in front to fuse in rear to batt pos (+) in rear to amp pos (+).

batt neg (-) in front to chassis (in front).

batt neg (-) in rear to chassis (in rear).

batt neg (-) in rear to amp neg (-).

*Does this sound right?

*Do I need another fuse between batt pos (+) in rear to amp pos (+)?

Thanks!

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

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That's exactly how I have mine set up, and seems like everybody I asked said to Fuse the wire from (Rear) Batt + to amp.. I guess one good rule is to always fuse any positive wire.. I fused my Alt + to (front) batt +..

'97 Explorer
2 Sundown SA 15's

SQ 2200D

Kinetik KHC1800 (Front)

Kinetik KHC 2000 (Back)

KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC

130A Alt + Big 3

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That all looks good, for the chassis ground in front, that is part of the Big 3 if I am not mistaken. When doing multiple batts, your fuse after your front, and right before the rear so you should be good. I will say this, if you have a distroblock and running multiple amps, I would fuse each of the wires off the distroblock to the fuse rating said by the manufacturer.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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That's exactly how I have mine set up, and seems like everybody I asked said to Fuse the wire from (Rear) Batt + to amp.. I guess one good rule is to always fuse any positive wire.. I fused my Alt + to (front) batt +..

A $10 fuse and holder is much cheaper than a new car loan. Also, that alt to batt is a must. If that isn't there and your alt fails and spikes, good bye car electronics.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Yeah, everything is setup for the Big 3 (fuse between alt and batt up front) and the neg up front to chassis is part of the Big 3 but just wanted to make sure the sequencing I had starting from the batt in front to the batt in rear and to the amp was correct. Thanks guys!

Oh, and I just have the one amp for the subs so I'm good there.

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

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