magillaru Posted May 28, 2014 Report Posted May 28, 2014 Getting ready to install a second battery and wanted to check if this is right (I did several searches and got several different answers so I'm posting here). (this is all 1/0) *Big 3 also done. batt pos (+) in front to fuse in front to fuse in rear to batt pos (+) in rear to amp pos (+). batt neg (-) in front to chassis (in front). batt neg (-) in rear to chassis (in rear). batt neg (-) in rear to amp neg (-). *Does this sound right? *Do I need another fuse between batt pos (+) in rear to amp pos (+)? Thanks! Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
GassenD Posted May 28, 2014 Report Posted May 28, 2014 That's exactly how I have mine set up, and seems like everybody I asked said to Fuse the wire from (Rear) Batt + to amp.. I guess one good rule is to always fuse any positive wire.. I fused my Alt + to (front) batt +.. '97 Explorer2 Sundown SA 15's SQ 2200D Kinetik KHC1800 (Front) Kinetik KHC 2000 (Back) KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC 130A Alt + Big 3
RooTxBeeR Posted May 28, 2014 Report Posted May 28, 2014 That all looks good, for the chassis ground in front, that is part of the Big 3 if I am not mistaken. When doing multiple batts, your fuse after your front, and right before the rear so you should be good. I will say this, if you have a distroblock and running multiple amps, I would fuse each of the wires off the distroblock to the fuse rating said by the manufacturer. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
RooTxBeeR Posted May 28, 2014 Report Posted May 28, 2014 That's exactly how I have mine set up, and seems like everybody I asked said to Fuse the wire from (Rear) Batt + to amp.. I guess one good rule is to always fuse any positive wire.. I fused my Alt + to (front) batt +.. A $10 fuse and holder is much cheaper than a new car loan. Also, that alt to batt is a must. If that isn't there and your alt fails and spikes, good bye car electronics. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
magillaru Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Posted May 28, 2014 Yeah, everything is setup for the Big 3 (fuse between alt and batt up front) and the neg up front to chassis is part of the Big 3 but just wanted to make sure the sequencing I had starting from the batt in front to the batt in rear and to the amp was correct. Thanks guys! Oh, and I just have the one amp for the subs so I'm good there. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild
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