Cj Kumz Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Posted July 2, 2014 Yah I am over-thinking lol. But I think it's more try and error like alaskanzx5 said. I think a little smaller box with a little more power will be fine and the other way around for bigger boxes. Just wanted to be cautious since we hear of people running 1500 rms subs with 2500 rms amps, so was wondering what measures they take to run such power and still keep their equipment safe. From what I have seen, those running way over rated power do a couple of things. Firstly their gains are set either by DD1 or Oscope. Secondly, you never see them at full tilt very long which keeps the coils from heating up too much. Yes makes a lot of sense. So the important thing is to avoid clipping and keep coils cool?? Good info Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!!
timc31610 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Posted July 2, 2014 Yah I am over-thinking lol. But I think it's more try and error like alaskanzx5 said. I think a little smaller box with a little more power will be fine and the other way around for bigger boxes. Just wanted to be cautious since we hear of people running 1500 rms subs with 2500 rms amps, so was wondering what measures they take to run such power and still keep their equipment safe. From what I have seen, those running way over rated power do a couple of things. Firstly their gains are set either by DD1 or Oscope. Secondly, you never see them at full tilt very long which keeps the coils from heating up too much. Yes makes a lot of sense. So the important thing is to avoid clipping and keep coils cool?? Good info Regardless of application I think those two are very important. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly
bkolfo4 Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 If the manufacturer rates the driver correctly, it should handle the rated power thermally in any recommended enclosure (meaning you are not doing something just totally stupid with the enclosure). The mechanical power rating is based on the box design. It is the amount of power required to reach the mechanical limits of the driver in the given enclosure (and even this can be "adjusted" using a subsonic filter). Puting the driver in a smaller enclosure to try to change the power rating is really not a good idea for most applications. A smaller enlcosure will be less efficient and have reduced low end frequency response. If the driver can't do what you need it to in the correct enclosure, select a different driver. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 ...If the driver can't do what you need it to in the correct enclosure, select a different driver. Ain't this the truth!!! "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
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