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Confused "Mechanical vs thermal power handling"


Cj Kumz

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Posted

Hey people, got a little confused on this topic. Ok so what I know is a smaller box has more mechanical power handling and a bigger box has less power handling. Then I understand thermal power handling does not change with box size. Hope I am ok till there. Now question is how do you build a smaller box and increase power handling input without increasing thermal power handling (rms) input???

Vw Polo

Pioneer Deh-6050UB

Sundown Saz-3500d

DD Audio 9500 15''

5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz

I live to hear the Bass drop!!!

Posted

The two are somewhat intertwined

I'm going to speak in very broad generalities here

A smaller box will restrict cone movement, reducing the amount of cooling the voice coil gets. It will also take more power to get the sub to move X amount. Generally less efficient

A larger box will allow more cone movement on the same amount of power. The coil will see more cooling, but the flipside is it won't take as much power to bottom the sub out of cause other mechanical harm. Generally more efficient

If I'm understanding you right, you are asking how to build a smaller box to handle the power you plan to throw at it... But while maintaining efficiency?

Posted

without decreasing thermal handling you mean? You get fancy with the port.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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Posted

The two are somewhat intertwined

I'm going to speak in very broad generalities here

A smaller box will restrict cone movement, reducing the amount of cooling the voice coil gets. It will also take more power to get the sub to move X amount. Generally less efficient

A larger box will allow more cone movement on the same amount of power. The coil will see more cooling, but the flipside is it won't take as much power to bottom the sub out of cause other mechanical harm. Generally more efficient

If I'm understanding you right, you are asking how to build a smaller box to handle the power you plan to throw at it... But while maintaining efficiency?

Yes we are on the same page. Say for example you gat a 1500 rms sub that recommends say a 4 cube box and you gat maybe 3.5 cube of free space. So you would build a smaller box and increase the rms power?? But again more power means more heat and a smaller box wouldn't help right?? This is where im lost lol

Vw Polo

Pioneer Deh-6050UB

Sundown Saz-3500d

DD Audio 9500 15''

5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz

I live to hear the Bass drop!!!

Posted

without decreasing thermal handling you mean? You get fancy with the port.

Could you elaborate a little bit more?? :)

Vw Polo

Pioneer Deh-6050UB

Sundown Saz-3500d

DD Audio 9500 15''

5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz

I live to hear the Bass drop!!!

Posted

I've been dealing with this same issue kinda.

from what I've learned its a win loose battle.

smaller box = higher mechanical power but reduced thermal handling because of lead cooling.

bigger box helps thermal from more air movement but create a greater chance of mechanical failure.

in other words give it near rated and within spec box volume or risk failure.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

Then agism a smaller box with sub inverted could help both mechanical and thermal but only to a point and only testing and more testing will you find an exact answer

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

I'm going to say this: I think you are realllllllllly over thinking this whole box-power handling-efficiency thing.

Get a sub that suits the power you plan to throw at it, then put it in a box in accordance with the manufacturer specs. As far as efficiency goes, there's so much more to it than raw box size. Things like finding a box that your sub and vehicle both "like" will play a huge role in efficiency. Enough so that looking at net volume as a single variable won't give you any meaningful answers.

Posted

Yah I am over-thinking lol. But I think it's more try and error like alaskanzx5 said. I think a little smaller box with a little more power will be fine and the other way around for bigger boxes. Just wanted to be cautious since we hear of people running 1500 rms subs with 2500 rms amps, so was wondering what measures they take to run such power and still keep their equipment safe.

Vw Polo

Pioneer Deh-6050UB

Sundown Saz-3500d

DD Audio 9500 15''

5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz

I live to hear the Bass drop!!!

Posted

Yah I am over-thinking lol. But I think it's more try and error like alaskanzx5 said. I think a little smaller box with a little more power will be fine and the other way around for bigger boxes. Just wanted to be cautious since we hear of people running 1500 rms subs with 2500 rms amps, so was wondering what measures they take to run such power and still keep their equipment safe.

From what I have seen, those running way over rated power do a couple of things. Firstly their gains are set either by DD1 or Oscope. Secondly, you never see them at full tilt very long which keeps the coils from heating up too much.

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