Got my box design and some neat paint pictures...will it work?

[Syphlyn]

Hey guys you've been helping me tons and I've finally gotten around to designing/drawing my box. I'd REALLY appreciate it if you could take a look, I've included some sketches!!

Here are some measurements in torres and some shitty paint drawings (I suck with sketch-up). Hopefully you can decipher them.

***Second picture is looking down on the box in its operating position (sub up/port up)***

***Third picture is looking at it it was laying down the sub/port is facing forwards towards the bottom of the picture. The orange and green walls resemble the port walls LOOKING DOWN FROM ABOVE as if you removed the side of the box***

***Warning shitty paint pictures ahead*** ----> http://imgur.com/a/mQ2Za

My only concern is posted in the last picture in pink. There's only a 2.5 inch "entry" point to the port internally is that fine or should the "back" port wall not almost extend to the opposite side of the box?

It'll go in the back of my 2000 F150 I've designed it to fit in the "40" part of my 60/40 rear with the seat lifted up. The woofer/port will be firing upwards!

Max dimensions I have to work with are:

Height: 32

Depth: 17

Width: 18

My goal is 2.25 cubes @ 30-31hz does that sound alright for a x12 on 2k? Won't be on 2k till I get my H/O alt from mechman. The sundown customer service guy said 14 sq inches of port/cubic foot I have a tiny bit more but that should be fine, at least to my knowledge.

Also I'm not sure if on the baffle if 0.66 inches is enough room on each side (shown in picture 2)

Feel free to make any suggestions/changes, this'll be my first box but I'm good with woodworking so that's not an issue.

I just wanna thank this forum and everyone who's helped me. Car audio keeps getting better and it's great to know there's many people our there willing to help and answer my dumb questions! Love ya fellas,

-Syph

[Triticum Agricolam]

Having your port end 2.5 inches from the opposite end is going to make your port effectively a couple inches longer, which will lower your tuning some. I'd shorten the last port board (shown in green on your drawing) by about 2.5" and that should tune you closer to where you want to be IMHO.

You said you are shooting for 2.25 cubes net, but your Torres screen shows 2.35. Other than that everything looks pretty good.

[Syphlyn]

Having your port end 2.5 inches from the opposite end is going to make your port effectively a couple inches longer, which will lower your tuning some. I'd shorten the last port board (shown in green on your drawing) by about 2.5" and that should tune you closer to where you want to be IMHO.

You said you are shooting for 2.25 cubes net, but your Torres screen shows 2.35. Other than that everything looks pretty good.

Good advice I'll see what other people say about the port thing.

Any suggestions for actually constructing the box?

- Do you use something to seal all the corners?

- What to use for terminals to attach the subs to on the interior of the box? (this thing http://imgur.com/c9KZ47h)

- Should I use 45s, if so will the extra .10 cubes will suffice?

- Do I round the port corners?

[Triticum Agricolam]

Good advice I'll see what other people say about the port thing.

Any suggestions for actually constructing the box?

- Do you use something to seal all the corners?

- What to use for terminals to attach the subs to on the interior of the box? (this thing http://imgur.com/c9KZ47h)

- Should I use 45s, if so will the extra .10 cubes will suffice?

- Do I round the port corners?

Calculating port tuning is definitely not an exact science, there are several ways to do it, and none of them are perfect. My suggestion is just based on what I've experienced, though every box is a little different.

-If you can make good gap-free glue joints you don't need to seal them with anything, if certainly won't hurt though if you have any doubt

-For the kind of power you are going to run I use 1/4" aluminum bolts, there are other options that work well too, though the terminal cup you linked might not be able to handle the power

-I use 45s in the corners of the ports, but I don't bother anywhere else. They could help if you glue joints are less than perfect

-Rounding over all edges that air will be flowing past (like inside the port) is a really good idea

[Syphlyn]

Okay excellent. As for gluing the box. Glue all peices together then pre-drill holes and screw all the pieces together?

- For the aluminum bolts just a bolt on each side or what? Do you have a picture or a youtube video?

- What kind of glue is best to use, any wood glue?

- How about my tuning, is it good? I want this sytem to destroy the lows in songs like on my level or put on ect. I listen to rap 99% of the time in my truck (tech n9ne is the best)

Thanks for all the help man!

[Joe X]

So here is a suggestion based closely to your desired specs, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

[Triticum Agricolam]

Okay excellent. As for gluing the box. Glue all peices together then pre-drill holes and screw all the pieces together?

- For the aluminum bolts just a bolt on each side or what? Do you have a picture or a youtube video?

- What kind of glue is best to use, any wood glue?

- How about my tuning, is it good? I want this sytem to destroy the lows in songs like on my level or put on ect. I listen to rap 99% of the time in my truck (tech n9ne is the best)

Thanks for all the help man!

If you are using screws you want to pre-drill all your hole before you touch the glue bottle. You basically want to completely assemble the box using only screws, then take it apart, glue everything up, and screw it back together.

Here are a couple pictures of boxes I've done using aluminum bolts, there isn't a lot to see though.

The way I do it is I have ring terminals crimped to the wires inside. The bolt goes through the ring terminal and then through the box from the inside out. I then put on nut on it from the outside to secure them and then I have another nut for attaching a ring terminal on the outside.

Your tuning should be fine, anything in that low 30's is going to slam. If you aren't completely confident in your design just use the one Joe X posted. You won't be disappointed.

[Syphlyn]

If you are using screws you want to pre-drill all your hole before you touch the glue bottle. You basically want to completely assemble the box using only screws, then take it apart, glue everything up, and screw it back together.

Here are a couple pictures of boxes I've done using aluminum bolts, there isn't a lot to see though.

The way I do it is I have ring terminals crimped to the wires inside. The bolt goes through the ring terminal and then through the box from the inside out. I then put on nut on it from the outside to secure them and then I have another nut for attaching a ring terminal on the outside.

Your tuning should be fine, anything in that low 30's is going to slam. If you aren't completely confident in your design just use the one Joe X posted. You won't be disappointed.

So you'd recommend to use Joe Xs design over mine? (That's fine I want what will work best). I'll use your bolt idea, just gotta make sure they don't contact my seat brackets lol.

- 32hz isn't too high of a tuning?

- I put the box specs he gave me into torres and I'm getting 2.5 cu ft not 2.25. http://imgur.com/yZrSm5j

[Syphlyn]

So here is a suggestion based closely to your desired specs, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

Thank you very much. When I put your specs/design into torres I don't get 2.25 cu ft I get 2.5 cubic feet. http://imgur.com/yZrSm5j

Do you think I'm better off with 32hz over 30hz?

Thanks once again Joe love your designs/sketch-ups, almost better then my paint drawings!

[Joe X]

I went on doing that as I found 29H to rather tall and possibly too near the roof which a situation you usually want to avoid, the reason you found it to be a bit large is Torres itself if you do calculations by hand or use sketchup you will find the calculator misses a bit on port displacement. the 32Hz is chosen so that the "extension" wall of the L port doesn't get too near the wall is aiming at altering your tuning, the difference between 31 and 32Hz is non existent to the ear so I wouldn't be concerned, differences of about 3 Hz or more probably are going to be bothersome if you are picky. If you are wanting to do boxes on a regular basis I would strongly recommend learning sketchup, is not about the looks only but for management of space and measurements, specially when you get into those harder projects.