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ELECTRICAL AND STEALERSHIP PROBLEMS


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Posted 6/4/14 on a Cobalt specific forum:

To start, I have had an evolving problem for a couple months but now Burt won't start at all.

Several months ago my problem started where I would turn to ON but the fuel pump wouldn't prime nor would the starter click or turn over when moved farther to START. I would leave Burt for about 10-20 minutes and try again and he would start like normal. This would happen reliably the first start of the day but would have no problems or issues until the next morning.

About a week ago it evolved to taking close to 30 minutes or more to start and became a regular problem whenever I attempted to start the car. Also I would have to rev to 25xx or so before shifting(auto) after start up otherwise Burt would die and I would have to wait to start him back up. The shifting problem was non existent after he had been running for 1-5 minutes while in reverse or drive, if left in park it would still occur. As of a few days ago my car has been sitting at a friend's house because now the fuel pump will not prime at all and the starter seems to be running reliably but there is no fuel getting to the engine.

A friend of mine said she had near identical issues and it was the ecm in her van(Chevy Venture) but I am at a loss. I also have no codes being tripped and according to my friend's dad(who is a mechanic in the military) all relays and fuses are good as of yesterday when he was trying to diagnose the problem but he has limited tools at his house to work with.

What is happening now:

So, update... I am quite angry so please excuse the language in the following.

My local stealership called me a few days ago about the recall saying my parts were finally in(after two months of hounding them), car is still immobile, they pay for my car to be towed there on Tuesday, Wed morning they call me and say there are 18 DTC's but because they cannot communicate with the computers they cannot read them, nor program the ignition... initially they say my stereo has nothing to do with it and that it is most likely a factory wire that is grounding out somewhere, said it would be $260 to diagnose and fix(if it is a wire). Yesterday they called and said it was the fuse box and the total rose to $871(I have 12V~ to my fuses and relays in both boxes according to my multimeter so I am not understanding but, I reluctantly agree for them to get it running. Just got a call from them a few minutes ago and they changed the fuse box but now they are saying it is a fried computer(what I thought from the beginning) and that my stereo is to blame, also they claim my positive cable is not factory because it is supposed to be "the size of your pinky" and it is "thicker than your thumb"(now the wire is factory but the terminals are not) They are claiming that because of the amp I installed AFTER it started having problems is at fault for "frying my whole electrical system". Oh and the total is now up to $1700.

I am so pissed right now it is taking every inch of my being not to go to the stealership, take a screwdriver and jam out the guys eye socket and skull fucking him until he bleeds to death from brain trama. Any Ideas?

Anyone in Fayetteville NC DO NOT TAKE YOUR MODIFIED CAR TO REID LALLIER CHEVROLET ON RAEFORD ROAD!!!!!

zr2usasig.jpg

Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements.

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Why are you paying for the additional work? That would be my point lf contention first. Second go to a a manager. Not the service manager. The ones above them. Raise the issue. Keep making it an issue. Ask for a detsiled breakdown of services rendered. Im an asshole if they cant diagnose it propwrly thats not my fault. Im not eating labor for something not my fault.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

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3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

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Stinger

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A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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That was my point exactly. They said the "electrical diagnosis" was $260 for the first 3.5hrs and additional after that. Unfortunately I am jobless at the moment so my mother was gracious enough to offer me a loan for the repairs but her stipulation was that they go through her and she is just taking it and since she has no clue about anything mechanical or electrical she is bitching me out for "breaking" my car. Oh and the amp is a sax100.4D which has on board fuses but I also am using a 200A circuit breaker that I know works(have purposely tested on an old battery).

zr2usasig.jpg

Yeah, it's slower than your bowel movements.

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I make my living as dealership technician so i don't care much for the term "stealership". Any ways it sounds like they are using your after market installations to cover there mistakes. I would recommend obtaining your original fuse block if its not to late and have them show or better explain what was wrong. Also i don't know how they knew about fault codes without communication to the ecm. I agree with what n8ball said talk to the general manager. At my dealership i would have explained the situation to my manager and we would have either picked up the tab on a used computer or adjusted the customers bill and worked with them to resolve the problem. If you can't get them to help just do some research and find out if the control unit is plug and play(no security or coding required). If that's the case just get one used from a yard on car-part.com.

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I make my living as dealership technician so i don't care much for the term "stealership". Any ways it sounds like they are using your after market installations to cover there mistakes. I would recommend obtaining your original fuse block if its not to late and have them show or better explain what was wrong. Also i don't know how they knew about fault codes without communication to the ecm. I agree with what n8ball said talk to the general manager. At my dealership i would have explained the situation to my manager and we would have either picked up the tab on a used computer or adjusted the customers bill and worked with them to resolve the problem. If you can't get them to help just do some research and find out if the control unit is plug and play(no security or coding required). If that's the case just get one used from a yard on car-part.com.

Sorry bro, but 95% of the people in your position are crooked as fuck. Not just dealerships (but mostly), but all mechanics. If it doesn't apply to you, good. But if the shoe fits.....

SMD Super Seller


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I make my living as dealership technician so i don't care much for the term "stealership". Any ways it sounds like they are using your after market installations to cover there mistakes. I would recommend obtaining your original fuse block if its not to late and have them show or better explain what was wrong. Also i don't know how they knew about fault codes without communication to the ecm. I agree with what n8ball said talk to the general manager. At my dealership i would have explained the situation to my manager and we would have either picked up the tab on a used computer or adjusted the customers bill and worked with them to resolve the problem. If you can't get them to help just do some research and find out if the control unit is plug and play(no security or coding required). If that's the case just get one used from a yard on car-part.com.

Sorry bro, but 95% of the people in your position are crooked as fuck. Not just dealerships (but mostly), but all mechanics. If it doesn't apply to you, good. But if the shoe fits.....

I wouldn't say 95%. But the real problem is bad help, no manager or service consultant will tell you the guy working on your car is only a step above and oil change bitch but in all actuality that happens all the time. I only know VW so cant be much help and was not that offended by the comment, good luck Op.

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