B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 Nope, shouldn't matter. I'd space the baffle to back dowel about half way between where the port ends and the left side panel of the box. As far as cutting the dowels squarely, the best thing would be to make yourself a cross cut sled and use it for the cuts. If you use your table saw much at all they are the greatest thing there ever was. Totally worth the little bit of time a materials it takes to make. If you google "crosscut sled" you will see lots of examples, or if you want I can take a picture of mine and show you what it is like. When using dowels for bracing there is the better way, and the OK way to do it. The OK way is to cut the ends off square and just glue them between the panels you want to brace. The better way is to use an appropriately sized drill bit to drill holes the same size as the dowel in the panel you want to brace. You then put glue on the dowel and drive it into place with a mallet. If you leave your dowels long you can them come back with a flush cut saw and cut the ends flush with the panel. The advantage of doing it this way is you get a LOT more surface area for the glue to bond to and instead of it being a butt joint its a lap joint, which is much stronger. Obviously the better way is quite a bit more work and depending on how you are finishing the outside of your box, they dowels may show, but when done this way it is SUPER strong. You had me at better way. I picked up a 16" long 1" spade bit, a mallet, and 2 oak dowels. With that monster bit i just drilled all the way through the enclosure but didn't drill all the way through the double baffle. Also thew two in the port and one top to bottom right near the front to back dowel. I am very pleased with the results. Thanks again for your help.
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 21, 2014 Report Posted July 21, 2014 That looks awesome and should be very strong! It actually might almost be the easier way to do it since you don't have to cut the dowels off at exactly the right length to get a good fit. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
RooTxBeeR Posted July 21, 2014 Report Posted July 21, 2014 I like his idea. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
4bannger Posted July 29, 2014 Report Posted July 29, 2014 I really like that idea for the dowels never thought about that I always did my dowels like the picture below of my 4th order 1 block had the hole were the dowel went through and the other was solid so it held the dowel in the hole. And just add a ton of glue
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