B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 I am looking for suggestions on bracing this enclosure for my FI SSD 12. This is my first build of a ported enclosure that I also designed. I already have the corners braced and could probably spare up to .05 cubic feet of additional bracing. I have some 1" dowel but am concerned about putting anything to close to port inlet or inside the port. Would a baffle to back wall brace near the port inlet effect tuning? Would it be ok to put one or two dowels inside the port to brace the back and port walls? Any suggestions/ideas appreciated.
tacomaguy1 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 Dowels inside port would be fine Team Flex Issues
B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 Dowels inside port would be fine I thought i would be Ok. I will probably put two half way between top and bottom and that should take care of the port wall and help with the back wall. You think i will need much more then that?
RooTxBeeR Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 Honestly that thing looks solid as hell. You might really only need a small amount of bracing if that. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 Honestly that thing looks solid as hell. You might really only need a small amount of bracing if that. Thanks, that is good to hear. I"m really only worried about the top,bottom, and back wall since they are almost 36" long and 3/4" thick.
4bannger Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 for a first time build that box looks awesome.
B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 for a first time build that box looks awesome. Thanks, but not first time build. First ported box designed and built. I did acquire some new tools to help though.
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 That enclosure looks really well built. Like other folks have said, you probably don't need a whole lot of bracing. Since your enclosure is fairly short and not very deep you don't have any large un-braced spans (which is good). I'd probably put a dowel or two bracing the port piece to the back, one from the back to the baffle left of where the port ends, and then maybe one or two from the bottom of the box to the top when you attach it and call it good. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
B-Large Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 That enclosure looks really well built. Like other folks have said, you probably don't need a whole lot of bracing. Since your enclosure is fairly short and not very deep you don't have any large un-braced spans (which is good). I'd probably put a dowel or two bracing the port piece to the back, one from the back to the baffle left of where the port ends, and then maybe one or two from the bottom of the box to the top when you attach it and call it good. Thanks for responding. So if i can put a dowel or two inside the port it shouldn't mater how close to the port end a baffle to back dowel is right? Also any tips on getting square cuts on the dowels? I only have a contractor table saw and the miter gauge blows.
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 20, 2014 Report Posted July 20, 2014 Nope, shouldn't matter. I'd space the baffle to back dowel about half way between where the port ends and the left side panel of the box. As far as cutting the dowels squarely, the best thing would be to make yourself a cross cut sled and use it for the cuts. If you use your table saw much at all they are the greatest thing there ever was. Totally worth the little bit of time a materials it takes to make. If you google "crosscut sled" you will see lots of examples, or if you want I can take a picture of mine and show you what it is like. When using dowels for bracing there is the better way, and the OK way to do it. The OK way is to cut the ends off square and just glue them between the panels you want to brace. The better way is to use an appropriately sized drill bit to drill holes the same size as the dowel in the panel you want to brace. You then put glue on the dowel and drive it into place with a mallet. If you leave your dowels long you can them come back with a flush cut saw and cut the ends flush with the panel. The advantage of doing it this way is you get a LOT more surface area for the glue to bond to and instead of it being a butt joint its a lap joint, which is much stronger. Obviously the better way is quite a bit more work and depending on how you are finishing the outside of your box, they dowels may show, but when done this way it is SUPER strong. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
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