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questions about flaring pvc


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Posted

So I have my box with 2-6" round PVC ports. It sounds just fine and all, but people keep telling me I need to flar my ports. After about 100 people telling me this I just said fuck it and started to do it. I did one side(front of port) but now I'm at the point were I need to do the other side. So what I want to know is do I have to flare both sides? Or is just the front ok? If I have to do both ends I have to

Flare the other end when the ports in the box. Or cut it then flare it the glue it back together. So if I don't have to do all that it would be a plus. Thanks for the input.

Pics of before and the ports flared on one side.

IMG_20140807_102652_925_zpsydyplcnm.jpg

IMG_20140808_154419_882_zpsabt99kfr.jpg

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

I would think the inside port opening would be more important. You would most likely have more air movement at the inside of the port.

Flare the inside just enough to where it still fits in. Or flare the outside more and give it a lip to mount it with. Flare the inside then cut the port hole just big enough for the flare to fit in and the outside flare with the lip on it to be mounted

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Posted

I would think the inside port opening would be more important. You would most likely have more air movement at the inside of the port.

Flare the inside just enough to where it still fits in. Or flare the outside more and give it a lip to mount it with. Flare the inside then cut the port hole just big enough for the flare to fit in and the outside flare with the lip on it to be mounted

This makes me think^. I have the room in the box to put that flared in inside the box and slide the (NOT flared side through the port holes and then can flare that side from out side the box... Sorry if that don't make sense. I'm kinda drunk..

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

Why not just buy some precision ports? Just wondering.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

Posted

Why not just buy some precision ports? Just wondering.

Well I have never done this so I wanted to Give it a go, still may go with precision port. Kinda a test run you can say. To be real I want to see if I can even tell the difference from not having a flare and having one.

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

Bc its cheaper. Flaring it enough to get a flat lip is kinda har tho.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

Bc its cheaper. Flaring it enough to get a flat lip is kinda har tho.

Yes its only 7$ for a 6" PVC port, and I think I can get it flat. Just have to go real slow with it.

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

All the power to you, but remember, you're stretching it so damn far it will probably crack, at least that what always happened to me when I tried it.

edit: If it takes you more than an hour, then its better to buy the $7 ports because I'm guessing you make more than $7 an hour.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

Posted

All the power to you, but remember, you're stretching it so damn far it will probably crack, at least that what always happened to me when I tried it.

Its not like I can't just glue the port to the box like it was before. I mean does the flare have to be more then what's in that pic? I can get more out of it^ for sure but if not its not a big deal. Like I said before the setup sounded just fine with out the flares just want to see if it will make a difference. Because people seem to think that its a must.

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

Posted

All the power to you, but remember, you're stretching it so damn far it will probably crack, at least that what always happened to me when I tried it.

edit: If it takes you more than an hour, then its better to buy the $7 ports because I'm guessing you make more than $7 an hour.

Took me 2 min to do them flares.

01 focus se

110 amp alt

Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0

Super start platinum AGM (starting)

2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back

Kenwood double DIN DDx271

A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines.

Orion xtx 64 in the front doors

2:1 4th order bandpass

Sealed off trunk

Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck

Orion hcca 12s (black coils)

Orion xtr3700.1

Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs

All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground)

Sky high dual 1/0 inputs

2 xs power D3100 in back

Sky high batt blocks

Rose audio batt blocks

Stinger volt meter

All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders

Db link remote/ rca

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