REH Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Alright, so I've had the same setup running in my Jeep for about 7 months now and never an issue at all. Well used and pushed hard daily. I get into my car this morning for the drive to work, flip on the FM radio and turn the bass knob all the way down (I don't feel the need to have bass going with morning radio)... 15 minutes into the trip I get a full tilt pop play through the subwoofers, now this is with the knob turned all the way to minimum and radio volume down also.... Bass knob light shows red (protect), light on amp shows protect also. Didn't get any smoke or anything. I pull over, cycle the ignition... Instant protect again. Checked all wiring, all is fine. Checked fuses.. once again, fine. Unhooked subwoofers from amp, unhooked RCA's, unhooked bass knob just to have nothing hooked up but power... And still instant protect. Yes, it's a very hated brand of amp (BXI1606D) on this forum that I've been using because I already owned it and planned to run it until the funding came for a SQ2200.. But didn't want this to happen and force me to be out of service until the extra cash comes which could be a good while still. I took the amp out, opened the back and while I don't exactly know what to look at/for I can't see anything visibly burned or busted... I snapped a few pictures which I'll post here.... Maybe one of you will know and see something that could give an explanation? Please, none of the comments of Cheap amp it happens, china, garbage, get what you pay for etc. Even with those facts there would still need to be a reason for it, what failed, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 shake the shit out of the amp with the cover off and see if anything moves a little I wonder if something has come loose and come in contact with another part causing the short If the amp will not come out of protect, you can empty the caps and pray that it comes back on to do this you need to take a wire and connect the battery input to the ground input You should see a very small spark, but you might not This method is in the troubleshooting section of your amplifiers manual goodluck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FCS530 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 My BE1700.1 recently did the same. No pop, but went into protect for no particular reason and wouldn't come out. It to was turned all of the way down, for a couple of days and when I tried to get some bass, nothing. Fortunately it was under an extended warranty, so I got it replaced. Hooked up new one the same as old one and works fine. I figure something may have come loose inside. It is now shelved as a spare. Several systems, several vehicles. Always changing! 2013 MECA State Champion (trunk 1) 2014 MECA State Champion (mod 4) 2014 MECA state Champion (Park and Pound 4) 2014 DBDRAG 6th place North America Finals (SS1-2) 2014 BASS RACE 6th place North America Finals (139.9) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 shake the shit out of the amp with the cover off and see if anything moves a little I wonder if something has come loose and come in contact with another part causing the short If the amp will not come out of protect, you can empty the caps and pray that it comes back on to do this you need to take a wire and connect the battery input to the ground input You should see a very small spark, but you might not This method is in the troubleshooting section of your amplifiers manual goodluck I'll give this a shot when I get the time later tonight and report back. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paidnfull Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 I had one do the same thing a few years ago. No bass knob, but my wife was using the car and the sub level on the h/u was turned off. You don't want to hear it, but it's a shitty built cheap amp. There were two other amps in the car that were actually being driven at the time, and they're still working to this day. No idea what happened or why, but there was no issue in the wiring or anything else going on in the car. Whatever happened was due to something inside the amp, it took out the pretty much the entire output section, a few diodes, and that ?4080? chip, but we replaced all of those parts and it immediately went up in smoke again, so there was still something else wrong with the board that we couldn't track down. I wasn't going to waste anymore money on it at that point and just junked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 its probably toast. Running at .5 right. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTS909 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Was it mounted to the box? I have bxi1610 that did the same thing being mounted to the box. VM-1 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Hertz HSK 165XL Arc Audio KS 300.2 Linear Power 1002 Full Mods Fi Audio Q 10s Sundown Audio Scv 3000 Big 3 XS Power D5100 Juice Box 20AH Singer Alternator Sky High Wire <p>My Ebay feedback. http://feedback.ebay...tab=AllFeedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 its probably toast. Running at .5 right. No, it's been @ 2ohms for a while now. But the odds are that it is toast, I just can't find the reason it happened/obviously burned/busted parts/etc... and just curious about it. I knew it was only a matter of time with the low quality amp, but the way it happened while not being pushed at all and at 2 ohms VS .5 and abused is what has me puzzled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Was it mounted to the box? I have bxi1610 that did the same thing being mounted to the box. Yes it was, and yes before anybody says that's a bad idea.. I'm fully aware of that. However I did not notice anything loose inside the amp at first look when I took the pictures and when this happened it wasn't being used so it couldn't have been a situation where vibrations at the time caused it to short out and pop like it did through the speakers. If it had happened while being pounded on, I could see this being the issue. I am going to check here later and do as Gunnem suggested and do some shaking on the amp and see if there's any rattles inside as a result of being box mounted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Call Me Dubstep Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 My only question would be, did you check the other side of the amp's board, something could have caused it to arc and caused a component to malfunction. 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 Mods: Raceland Coilovers Borla Exhaust Aftermarket Header System: Sony CDX-GT66UPW Pioneer 6x8's System Upgrades : Pioneer MVH-X560BT 2 sets of Rockford Fosgate P1683's Fi Audio Q 18" D2 ( Currently Own) DD M1C ( Currently Own) All SHCA Wires and stuff... XS Power 4800 ( Stock Replacement) High Ouput alternator (undecided which company or Amperage.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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