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To deaden the rear doors or not to deaden the rear doors?


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Well I did the fronts and its an improvement for sure.

But.... my car is kinda weird. Basically there is an inner door skin which hold all the window mechanisms etc. In order to get to the outter door skin, the inner needs to be removed. In order to remove the inner skin the door handle, window glass, and door panel ALL need to come out.

It is possible to work around this like I like in the front, but that was only because the stock speakers have been removed and replaced. By using the open 6.5 hole and having the inner skin partially removed along the bottom only, most of the outter skin was accessible.

In the rear doors, everything is still stock. The rear speakers, as were the fronts, are rivetted into the door. So unless I want to drill them out and remount them, I cannot use the speaker mount as an access hole like before. And while I still could pry up the bottom of inner door skin, without that speaker hole, I could only access 15% at most of the outter door.

So my question is:

Is it worth to either a remove the glass and handle and skin to get acesss, or b drill out the speaker mount, and remount it when ive finished?

Is there any value in deadening the outter door skin only at all?

Or just say F it, it only has stock speakers. But the metal on this car is rather thin.

Pix and vids coming.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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20140812_144127_zpsb4506d19.jpg

So the aluminum looking panel is the inner skin preventing me from getting to the outter door panel to deaden. Id have to drill out that speaker or remove handle and glass, then finally that panel.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Never seen that before. Honestly, if you're willing to put the effort in, do it.

I did a layer on all four of my my outer and inner doors, plus a bit of closed cell foam on the door panels...rides like a fucking Cadillac.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

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The only reason I deadened my rear doors was because around 25hz they moved out a ton (enough to get a finger caught in them) and I figured I was losing some SPL with that. I did only one layer and saw improvement in the amount of movement from the door. I don't know about SPL because I didn't have a chance to meter the car before I did it.

2001 Saturn L200
-Sony MEX-BT4100P
FRONT STAGE:
- (4) Crescendo PWX 6
- Cadence XA250.2
SUB STAGE:
-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)
-Crescendo BC2k
ELECTRICAL:
- Singer 240A alt

- XS Power D3400
- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire
- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gauge
Build Log: Click Here

Scores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw

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Actually i think that inner aluminum panel is going to be in your favor. I would just seal it up and deaden that inner panel the best you can. I had a black plastic material for my inner panel and without sound deadener inside the door its flex city. I think its pretty solid the way it is now to be honest.

"Toyota Camry rebuild page 21 (link)http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183768-94-crossfire-camry-18s-walled-singer-alt-has-arrived-rebuild-starts-pg-10/page-21

PIONEER DEH-P8400BH

2 CROSSFIRE C5 1700D

2 CROSSFIRE C7 18

HOOD. NSB GROUP48 TRUNK SMS AGM400

DUAL RUNS X SCORP 1/0 OFC

275A SINGER ALT.

DYNAMAT XTREME

SOUNDSTREAM TA4.280

PIONEER COMPONENTS


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