BigBirdy Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 Hey guys I'm just getting started with this advanced car audio hiznatch. I am a complete noob when it comes to electrical. Please help me out and thanks in advance guys.My plan is to go for a dual hdc4 18 sub setup. I know almost everything I'm going to need but I need some help with electrical. I want to run them off 2 sq3500.1s. I'm not looking to change my electrical to 16v or 18v. I know the questions might be a little silly but please hear me out. 1. Do the hdc418s run at 1 ohm? 2 what kind of electrical would I need for 2 sq3500.1 like the batteries and alternators 3.will I be getting 3500 watts RMS from running sq3500.1 @14v at 1 ohm? 4. How do I wire a 1 ohm speaker at 1ohm. Thank you to all that help me and I hope one day I could be as knowledgable as you guys. Also please tell me any other tips you can throw in.
BigBirdy Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Posted August 19, 2014 I also forgot to ask, how do I work my amp at 1ohm? Forgive the silly questions but I have to start somewhere guys.
ChevyBoy95 Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 If you don't know a whole lot, I don't know if 2 80lbs 18's on 8600w rms would be a good idea.... for the sake of not toasting new expensive equipment. But, if you want to do it.... 1. Subs do no "run" at any load, amplifiers do. The SQ HDC4's only come with Dual 1 ohm voice coils, so each sub CAN be wired do either .5 ohm, or 2 ohms. This means with 2 HDC4's, you can wire to 1 ohm. 2. For electrical, I would suggest dual 250a+ alternators, and about 4-6 group 31 AGM batteries, and a bunch of 1/0 cable 3. The SQ3500.1 is a 4300w amp, so yes, you will get 3500w at 14v 4. You can't wire a dual 1 ohm sub to 1 ohm. 5. You don't "work" your amp at 1 ohm.... that doesn't even make sense With what you are going for, you are going to have to run each amp at .5 ohms, or go with an amplifier that does 7000-8000w @ 1 ohm, which is what I would suggest for simplicity. Honestly, it sounds like you don't have a grasp on the basics and you are about to drop close to 6 thousand or so once it is said and done to run this equipment properly... 880 in subs 1600 in amps 1800 in batteries 800 in alternators (not including bracket) 600 in wire (positive runs, jumpers, grounds, amplifier wires... etc.) 5680 bucks, and this doesnt include the cost of building a box, and then most likely needing to upgrade the front stage as well to keep up..... see what im getting at.... Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
philrab Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 My advice, sideline the build until you educate yourself. There's no such thing as a stupid question (well, almost) but what you're asking is basic enough that I can see you getting yourself into some serious trouble if you dive in with your limited knowledge. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
afrakes Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 My advice, sideline the build until you educate yourself. There's no such thing as a stupid question (well, almost) but what you're asking is basic enough that I can see you getting yourself into some serious trouble if you dive in with your limited knowledge.What he said Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
Hifonics Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 My advice, sideline the build until you educate yourself. There's no such thing as a stupid question (well, almost) but what you're asking is basic enough that I can see you getting yourself into some serious trouble if you dive in with your limited knowledge.What he said Or just get a shop to do it all for you if you've got the cash. Nothing wrong with that. 2010 F150 FX4-18" AA Mayhem-Crescendo BC3500d-Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel-2 Crescendo FT1 -2 Crescendo Neo Forte 6.5 -Pioneer AVH-P3300BT-6000K HID Headlights/Fog lights-All LED interior lighting-20% tint on front windows, 1% rear windows, 5% windshield strip-Big3 (XSFlex 0ga) -DC Power 270XP -Group 65 NorthStar AGM battery Coming soon/plans: -Build log-Blacked out mirror reflectors-Tinted tails/3rd brake light
philrab Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 To the OP, I'm not trying to down you at all, especially for a lack of knowledge. I dove into car audio years ago not knowing my ass from a hole in the ground, BUT I have the benefit of a father that knew his shit about electronics/wiring/circuits/ect. so he could at least keep me out of trouble. I set my gains too high, blew lots of speakers, but at least I didn't short a wire, catch the car on fire, or zap the shit out of myself. My concern is, you're working with some pretty impressive current and voltage (an amplifier is basically a voltage multiplier, takes the 2-5V signal from the RCA's and multiplies it A LOT) and you have the potential to severely injur yourself if you aren't sure what you're doing. The basics can be easily learned and taught, but you gotta nail down those basics first before you start talking about a system the type of which you have your heart set on. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
juan777 Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 I am powering both of mine with a SQ3500. Soon a BC5500. Equipment is in my signature, I think I saw 13.8V once but I stay at 14V on idle at full tilt. I would feel "comfortable" with 4-5 batteries to power 2 SQ3500 in my current electrical (6 batteries being optimal). That being said, I agree with everyone else, learn, start a bit smaller. The L@zy Hoe 2005 Chevy Tahoe 2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids 4 10 midrange 4 6.5 midwoofers 4 Tweeters 6 Supertweeters 2 Lithium 80AH Batteries 24K Watts 4 Custom 18s Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works The Build Log Like Loud Bass? Click Here! On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said: See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on. On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said: I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!
BigBirdy Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Posted August 20, 2014 To the OP, I'm not trying to down you at all, especially for a lack of knowledge. I dove into car audio years ago not knowing my ass from a hole in the ground, BUT I have the benefit of a father that knew his shit about electronics/wiring/circuits/ect. so he could at least keep me out of trouble. I set my gains too high, blew lots of speakers, but at least I didn't short a wire, catch the car on fire, or zap the shit out of myself. My concern is, you're working with some pretty impressive current and voltage (an amplifier is basically a voltage multiplier, takes the 2-5V signal from the RCA's and multiplies it A LOT) and you have the potential to severely injur yourself if you aren't sure what you're doing. The basics can be easily learned and taught, but you gotta nail down those basics first before you start talking about a system the type of which you have your heart set on. Thanks I'm pretty much in your shoes lol. I know very little about electrical if I know anything at all. However my father, he's been in the buisness 20+ years.
BigBirdy Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Posted August 20, 2014 My advice, sideline the build until you educate yourself. There's no such thing as a stupid question (well, almost) but what you're asking is basic enough that I can see you getting yourself into some serious trouble if you dive in with your limited knowledge.What he said Or just get a shop to do it all for you if you've got the cash. Nothing wrong with that.I have the cash that's necessary, and I have my dad. My dads been in the body/audio buisness for 20+ years. Thanks I might get a shop but I think my dad probobly knows best.
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