masonv6 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Tomorrow I am going to purchase an AQ Q2-200 for a very good price, pretty much a steal. The only problem is it is a 2 channel rated at 220wrms @ 4ohms x 2 , or 340wrms @ 2ohms x 2. I have ordered 2 sets of the Crescendo CZ Series components rated 100wrms @ 4ohms. My question is how do I set the gains to make sure I have 100wrms going to the components each when I wire the front and back set in parallel to each channel? I know there is the multi meter way, but idk if that is such a good idea to begin with. Any help would be great Thank You! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fufhubbin Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 hook the multi meter positive in the amp output positive then the negitive in the negitive when its set to ac200 volts selector and turn up the headunit to what you want full volume . then get the ohms law calculator and put in the volts that its reading out and the ohms that you are usings . it will tell you how many amps its putting out. multiply the amps its putting out by the volts that your car battery is giving you amp witch is usually 13-14.4 and that is how u get watts ORION HCCA 10.4 2000 watts RMS 4000 watts max hifonics brutus 2600 bxi Alpine IDA -305 Digital receiver 0 gauge power wire 250 amp fuse 800 watt BUTTKICKER BASS SHAKER Kicker zx-400 amp to power buttkicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masonv6 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 hook the multi meter positive in the amp output positive then the negitive in the negitive when its set to ac200 volts selector and turn up the headunit to what you want full volume . then get the ohms law calculator and put in the volts that its reading out and the ohms that you are usings . it will tell you how many amps its putting out. multiply the amps its putting out by the volts that your car battery is giving you amp witch is usually 13-14.4 and that is how u get watts Is that a pretty accurate way of doing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 hook the multi meter positive in the amp output positive then the negitive in the negitive when its set to ac200 volts selector and turn up the headunit to what you want full volume . then get the ohms law calculator and put in the volts that its reading out and the ohms that you are usings . it will tell you how many amps its putting out. multiply the amps its putting out by the volts that your car battery is giving you amp witch is usually 13-14.4 and that is how u get wattsIs that a pretty accurate way of doing it? Nope but it is the completely wrong way of doing it. If you have no clue at what point the input signal to your amp clips or distorts anything you set the gain to is meaningless. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yeah, this is when the DMM method actually does work fairly well. As he described above, you can find your target, which should be lower than the speakers RMS rating to start. But then it's all about using your ears, eyes, and nose. Adjust up from there a tiny bit at a time until you can tell the speakers aren't happy, then back off some from there. Headroom is a great thing "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Yeah, this is when the DMM method actually does work fairly well. As he described above, you can find your target, which should be lower than the speakers RMS rating to start. But then it's all about using your ears, eyes, and nose. Adjust up from there a tiny bit at a time until you can tell the speakers aren't happy, then back off some from there. Headroom is a great thing No it sure isn't. if the signal coming from the source unit is clipped or distorted anything coming out of the amp will be too no matter what the gain is set at. Put shit in get shit out. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masonv6 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I plan on buying a DD-1 if that will help any. I just figure by the time I start to distort I will be way over watts for those components by then lol So I guess that's why I asked this question. The DD-1 will be of no help. It will tell me if my signal coming into the amp is distorted, but idk how the hell to tell what I am giving my speaker as far as watts go. and the only thing that came to mind was the DMM way, but idk if I really like that idea. I was hopping someone could chime in with a better way of setting the gains for my situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I plan on buying a DD-1 if that will help any. I just figure by the time I start to distort I will be way over watts for those components by then lol Yes if you cranked to the max undistorted setting with the dd-1 would likely be overpowering then but you just find the distortion point then back the gain down with the multimeter to where you need it to be. You also have no way of knowing where you're source unit is distorting or clipping at right now and unless you know that you could be sending a clipped or distorted signal even with the gain all the way down. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masonv6 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I thought the DD-1 could test the Head Unit for sending a clipped signal as well? Also I have a kenwood excelon, I have read, not saying just read, they don't clipped at full volume. Also a rule of thumb I have always thought was to only turn your head unit to 3/4 at most if you are unsure of clipping volume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 I thought the DD-1 could test the Head Unit for sending a clipped signal as well? Also I have a kenwood excelon, I have read, not saying just read, they don't clipped at full volume. Also a rule of thumb I have always thought was to only turn your head unit to 3/4 at most if you are unsure of clipping volume? Yes the dd-1 can test that but you said you don't have it yet so how could you find out. The 3/4 thing is also Bs post up what head unit you have maybe someone else here has one and could give you an idea of where theirs distorts at. Best bet is to just wait till you get the dd-1 or find someone in your area with one and borrow theirs. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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