amp going in protection mode! have good ground and havent blown 60 amp fuse. not hot . 13+volts

[KILLXEMXALLX91]

im going to say ohm out your subs first thing to do is unhook your subs turn it up see if it goes into protect if it still does it try testing your power and ground with a multimeter you can also check ohms with your multimeter now if your power and speakers are good try and test your rca to unplug it out of your amp turn it on see if it still goes into protect also i had some fuses go bad glass and anl fuses go bad and didnt break in the center of the fuses on the ends of them hope this helps if all fails bad amp

[Ritch40]

the only thing i can think of here (especially knowing that hifonics amps are current hogs) is he has to have an open coil or he isnt wired the way he thinks he is.

one thing that has bothered the daylights out of me about this, every new post he makes the 60a fuse is always intact. That amp should pop a fuse THAT small on the first good hit.

I have basically the same amp in a different package, and i hammered a 150a fuse on the first good hit(i forgot to change that fuse to a 250a prior to firing the amp up for the first time).

He has something bad wrong going on there. Just an FYI to the OP, fuses are NOT a current limiting device. they are designed to pop at a specific amperage so you don't catch wiring or equipment on fire. Nothing more, nothing less.

The fuse blowing or not is not a reliable diagnostic

Alot of fuses need to be over stressed for a certain amount of time before they blow

It is very likely that amp would protect before the fuse would blow.

Say what you want about hifonics but they do protect very quickly.

His fuse NOT blowing should not be a big mystery

There is no reason to think OP is having voltage spikes.

Everything OP has reported to us says he has tuned his amp wrong and is clipping.

While Gunnen is correct here, the fact he isn't popping that 60 amp fuse does tell those of us(like yourself Gunnem) who do know a thing or 2 that's something is up.

Let us just assume 2 things for a moment, #1 that his electrical maintains 13.5 volts dc. #2 that his amp is drawing a full 60 amps (not really possible to draw that much amperage consistently without killing fuse but hey..). According to ohms law for dc circuits voltage x amperage = wattage. I know that at the amps output we are actually dealing with ac voltage,but, you still need to draw a certain amount of amperage at a given voltage to obtain a specific wattage. As many of us know (especially with hifonics) that many amplifiers tend to be fairly inefficient. in other words due to the lack of efficiency if your wattage and voltage stay fairly consistent you'd have to draw even more amperage. So, 1750 watts divided by the voltage (13.5 in this example) = 129 amps needed(and that's if the amp were 100% efficient and we know its much closer to 80%). So, assuming 13.5 volts times 60 amps = (at best) 810 watts. To be honest by the time you factor in efficiency i am willing to be he is much closer to 600 watts. As a result of all this i have to believe he either has an open spot in 1 of the voice coils, or , a faulty amplifier.

As I mentioned before, I am pretty sure my hifonics Zues 3200 has the exact same board as his brutus does. I already know how much in the line of volt amps I get out of the amp. Later today I will try to clamp the power line and see just how much current i am drawing at the power line. I am confident the results from that will completely back up my theory on whats going on with OP's system.

[Ritch40]

im not sure what thi

it mit be a bad sub ohm them out and see if the are blown?

im not sure what this means? the ohms on the sub are not what its rated at? would the be cause i got it from sound electronix which suposidly has b grade subs.

are you saying take the multi meter and test the ohms of the sub thou

when wiring down to 2 ohms from 4 i had to connect a wire on the sub from the positive to the positive and neg to neg and it was impossible to fit 2 twisted strands of 8 gauge so i had to cut each of the 8 gauge wires comming from the amp in half basicly ( like the part thats exposed when wire is stripped) couldnt think of any other way . could this change the ohms. and its NOT ofc wire btw

Remove the sub from its enclosure and disconnect the wires going to the amplifier. Take a DMM set to measure DC resistance. I am willing to bet this is where you will find a portion of your issues. With a dual 4 ohm sub each coil should see a dc resistance some where between 3.5ohms to 4.5 ohms(according to Orions listed T/S parameters I think 3.7 ohms per coil). When doing this test I do suggest that you do it in as quiet of an environment as possible. The reason being is the speaker will pick up any noise around you(acting like a microphone) and this will cause your meter to dance around and not really stabilize. I think there's a good chance you will find that in your case you will find out that both of your readings fall outside of that. If both coils read good, I am willing to bet 1 of 2 other possibilities. 1 being that the wire you currently power the amp with is VERY sub par for the task at hand. The other being an amp that is in some way defective. A third i just thought of (although I do think is the least likely answer) your power wire and connections might just be that poor.

[hispls]

ive yet to open a fuse. the amp its self doesnt have any fuses on it! its just the fuse by the front battery.

im goin to get ofc 1/0 gauge and throw a 150 amp fuse on it i think shortly

ive yet to open a fuse. the amp its self doesnt have any fuses on it! its just the fuse by the front battery.

im goin to get ofc 1/0 gauge and throw a 150 amp fuse on it i think shortly

I would encourage you to get a second battery or upgraded alternator. My guess is it's a low voltage issue whether or not your digital display is accurate or fast enough to show you.

[Guest]

he doesn't need a HO alt for like 1300w. i ran an aq 1200 and rf 200 4 channel on a stock 70 amp alt and walmart battery and it did fine.

[hispls]

he doesn't need a HO alt for like 1300w. i ran an aq 1200 and rf 200 4 channel on a stock 70 amp alt and walmart battery and it did fine.

Personally I'd run an extra battery for >1000W amp, and you're comparing a relatively good quality 1200W amp to a known inefficient Chinese 2200W amp in two entirely different applications. By my estimation 1000-1200W is about the point where you may or may not get away with running things without electrical upgrades. Oh, and your 200W 4 channel probably draws 8 or 10 amperes 90% + of the time.

[Guest]

please just stop, you're so ignorant its making my stomach hurt

I actually laughed out loud reading this. Please forgive my ignorance and enlighten me. Which protection feature is the one that is triggered by clipping? What do they call this? Why isn't it in the manual? What other brands have this feature? Surely if you know what you're talking about you can simply answer the question.

LOL "add another battery", again more electrical advice for someone not experiencing a significant voltage drop at all.

You are so full of win.

I actually took time out of my day for this nonsense and I'm kinda glad I did

After looking into the hifonics brutus protection modes you seem to have forgotten

OVERLOAD PROTECTION in your list a couple posts back

"DC, Short Circuit, Thermal and Overload Protection"

By clipping or amplifying a square wave your outputs see thousands

more watts through the amp than the parts are meant to tolerate

This "over load" is detected and the amp is sent into protect

This protect feature is important because it detects the flow of current faster than an actual fuse would

[Guest]

he doesn't need a HO alt for like 1300w. i ran an aq 1200 and rf 200 4 channel on a stock 70 amp alt and walmart battery and it did fine.

Personally I'd run an extra battery for >1000W amp, and you're comparing a relatively good quality 1200W amp to a known inefficient Chinese 2200W amp in two entirely different applications. By my estimation 1000-1200W is about the point where you may or may not get away with running things without electrical upgrades. Oh, and your 200W 4 channel probably draws 8 or 10 amperes 90% + of the time.

20 year old class AB technology. i was drawing more than 10 amps.

my hifonics 1605d was fine on the same electrical.

[Kyblack76]

My god this thread makes me wanna vomit every time it loads on the header.

[fufhubbin]

since i tuned my amp it has yet to go into protect mode! thanks so much guys! im going to ohm out my sub hopefully tomorrow. so even while its wired up in its supposedly 2 ohms set up the positive wire should read 3.7 ish and the neg wire should be 3.7 ish? its like a brand new sub . havent pushed it extremely hard or anything why would the ohms be off? cause i powered it with dirty power from the hifonics?

sorry this thread makes you sick but its been really helpful

so do you think i could get more power out of my amp if i get ofc 0/1 gauge and a xs D3400 in the back as a second battery