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hispls

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Everything posted by hispls

  1. Made my personal best SPL score this weekend.  158.7  (DB drag style)  Waiting on batteries now that should get me to 160

  2. Those rectangular critters in the center of that picture definitely look like what failed me. Aluminum felt super thick and perhaps just ANT lumping it in with our name made the fella I bought it from represent it as yours. Mystery solved I guess. The takeaway here is to buy real deadener brand new from the manufacturer or authorized vendor or you roll the dice on results.
  3. Damplifier Pro is pretty unmistakeable name and I got them not long after the industry first started doing the 80mil thickness IIRC. I could probably find the thread with enough digging but I've got a good 50 trades between 3 different boards and it was probably 5 years ago now. Like I said, they were a throw-in with a trade to even out a value so as you say I don't know how long the other guy had them sitting or where and I never really bothered to complain to anybody since I didn't really care one way or another. They were really thick (the aluminum and the butyl) and heavy just didn't stay stuck to my roof and liftgate. I always thought Ant was kind of a douche so I never bought anything he sold and quit being active on CACO when he took over and made it pay-per-view. I restate, if that was the norm for your products I'm sure you wouldn't still be in business so I've chalked it up to user error. Perhaps it as too cold when I tried to put them on, I didn't clean off the metal properly, or just didn't put enough oomph behind rubbing them on. Whatever it is it's good to see you active on forums and I get the vibe that if I bought new product from you that you'd take care of something like this. I definitely didn't want to cause trouble but it is interesting to note that it is best applied "fresh".
  4. Not all sound deadeners are created equal. Even some so called "premium brands" are only "butyl based" or "contain butyl", those terms are used to make customers think they are getting a quality butyl product, but are still most likely made in China without regulation and quality controls of the types of fillers they put inside their products. That is why you should always insist on a high quality American made butyl rubber product like Damplifier or Damplifier Pro which has the highest heat rating in the industry of 450 degrees. The reason ours withstands that heat is because it is not filled full of cheap fillers. Whatever brand you choose, make sure it is an American made butyl product. Second Skin For The Win!!! LOL. Actually it was the Damplifier Pro SPL tiles that fell off of my roof. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to user error ie. me improperly prepping the surface since I haven't heard any complaints of your stuff elsewhere. I think heat wasn't the issue since I'm pretty far north, but just not being sticky enough. I didn't mention the brand earlier because I didn't want people to get the wrong idea and I can't say for certain why they failed. I just picked up a stack of them in trade from a fella who had extras and didn't put much thought or effort into any of it... it was more of "Oh Ok I've got these now what can I do with them real quick" kind of thing.
  5. I bought some premium brand deadener a few years back and that all failed and fell off. Sort of soured me on the really expensive stuff. That said, I've never even see peel n' seal though people have been trying it for ages now in the hopes of getting something for nothing.
  6. Spent about an hour and a half sanding rough bondo in the box/port lost .6dB

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. hispls

      hispls

      LOL. It's a wall. Going to have to figure out another way to gain and/or raise my peak again.

    3. Ahmed Johnson

      Ahmed Johnson

      Lol, damn that really sucks. When you gonna put some pics up?

    4. hispls

      hispls

      I posted a build log a couple weeks ago. I'll update today with some pics of what I've changed and hopefully get some ideas.

  7. Are you SURE there's nothing wrong with your vehicle that killed the battery so quickly? I'd be taking a look at that first and foremost. Or go to the parts store and buy one and leave it sit for 3 weeks and see what happens. The kid making minimum wage behind the counter of the parts store won't give you any trouble honoring warranty on a 3 week old battery regardless of what you did to it.
  8. Inefficient = more heat. When you halve impedance you quadrouple the heat and stress on your semiconductors. You can do whatever rituals you like but .5 ohm simply is very hard on things, and what you gain likely will be barely audible. I would suggest if that if you would be upset by a 400$ amp repair and being without it for a month or two, avoid .5.
  9. Springfield Speaker Repair used to have some new old stock OEM RF softparts. You might not like the price, but they're your best bet if you want it back to factory specs.
  10. I don't think you get it. It's not MY stuff. It used to belong to a guy who attended a lot of local shows and now it belongs to his widow. I can read. I know it's not yours but you are the one who is known around here and other forums. Unless the party you are speaking of is a contributor in the forums, you are gonna be more trusted. This one is national, all the other ones I'm in are local. https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheBassMart/ Thanks for the link! So as an update looking over what was there it wasn't that much. Apparently he was doing a little wheeling and dealing (I was kind of expecting to see every piece of gear he ever turned up at a show with) so there's not too much big stuff. The best of the lot so far is stuff that won't ship well (18" LV6 and a couple 110AH batteries). The RF Symetry, Critical Mass and Focal stuff will likely do better on DIYMA anyway. Once his family gets what's left of his car back from the state police there will be a big amp and a DD-Z in there. Hopefully it all still functions. His wife said that he did have a CACO account so she's going to try to just use that herself or sign up there, lastly, I think there's enough small stuff that she can build up some refs just selling wires, distro blocks, etc. He did a bit of installing on Craigslist so there's a lot of odds and ends as far as install accessories plus some nice 1-of speakers and other small ticket items for ref count building. Anyway, thanks for the help, guys.
  11. I don't think you get it. It's not MY stuff. It used to belong to a guy who attended a lot of local shows and now it belongs to his widow. His family is really good people and if buyers pay with paypal they're covered. Like I said, myself and others in this region will vouch for them and that the gear exists and is legit. My part will be just to test stuff, tell the family what it all is, what's a fair price, and get them signed up to forums where it'll sell. If they were a little closer I'd personally handle all the gear and shipping and whatever and I don't know if I really want to store it all here and broker it like that. If they can't move it we may come to that. I am plenty established on CACO, DIYMA, and CA.com for selling. So does a "premium" account here have privileges to sell right away? This guy's family definitely isn't interested in joining forums and participating to bump up a post count until they can sell, just trying to clear out his old stuff that they'll never use. I shall also suggest Facebook audio group, can anybody link which is best/legit?
  12. OK, long story short, one of the guys in our local competition scene died in a rollover on the way home from a show this summer. His widow has a pile of very high end audio equipment. Not sure what he actually had, but I've seen him show up to shows with 8K and bigger amps, RE XXX, DC LV6, DD-Z, etc. etc. So that's the sort of gear he'd have kicking around. Now obviously this stuff isn't going to sell on Craigslist and his surviving family doesn't have an established eBay account so we're looking to get this stuff posted on forums. I'm going to go over there today and help them catalog what's there, test things, and try to get them set up with accounts on some audio forums. There's plenty of guys in the area that'll vouch for this guy's family so it's not just my say-so (though I have plenty of trade/buy/sell refs online). Looking for input/advice on how to best get this stuff into good homes. Should I just post it as my own or have the family open a paid account here and on CACO or whatever and deal with it themselves? Thanks in advance for any advice.
  13. They're strong amps but prone to random self destruct and repair is incredibly expensive if one blows up on you. Plenty of guys run them for a decade daily without trouble, but I've heard a few reports of just just turning them on and they blow up for no apparent reason. Happened to a friend of mine and confirmed with Ampmedics that it has happened to other people. The DC 5K appears to be the same board as the old Sundown 4500D which is a proven performer, so nothing wrong with that. Personally if I were shopping for a 5K I'd be looking at the American Bass 500.1. They're tried and tested and can be had used for short money. Any of the cookie cutter Korean 5K boards will be far cheaper and easier to get fixed than the RF if anything goes wrong.
  14. Implying that more batteries makes .5 ohm less strenuous on semiconductors. Really I always say if you need to come on here and ask, you have no business running any equipment outside of manufacturer specifications, and if you can't afford to break that amp you definitely shouldn't think about it.
  15. RF went to shit for a long time after that generation of Punch amp. Those and the original ones were monsters though. I'm surprised that the RF pulled ahead so much at 1 ohm though. PG used to really tout their amps' abilities to drive low impedance.
  16. I would recommend Zed Audio (in California), Ampmedics (in Florida), Db-R electronics (in Texas), or Sound West (in Tacoma, WA) for reputable amp repair services. Go with whoever is closest to you to minimize shipping costs.
  17. I've heard of scuffing it up. Shocker Mike claims that simply wiping them down with acetone then putting a heavy weight on them will make them stick with CA glue, but Springfield claims to have a glue that grabs that rubber. The parts aren't cheap, but I wouldn't bother with PSi parts if you can get OEM. They're great subs for what they are and there's no need to roll the dice with lesser performance from non-stock parts.
  18. Springfield Speaker Repair has new-old-stock OEM parts for these. IIRC the inner diameter is over 3.0" so most of the oddball coils I had laying around wouldn't squeeze over it. OEM coil is pretty thin and a rather short wind width. OEM spider landing is a but under 8" so you'll need to either trim something or buy the original parts. That motor is not terribly big or deep so you're pretty well limited to 1000W continuous power handling on a good day. I have some OEM RF 15" cones and dustcaps for HX2 if you need. Be aware the surround is rubber and CA glue won't hold them to the frame.
  19. I'm sure that'll sort out all your problems over there. LOL. I can't believe anybody other than faggots, hipsters, communists, and illegals still lives in that state.
  20. If you have to post this thread you have no business using these beyond the manufacturer recommendations. The "right box" isn't going to make a 2.5" coil hold 2000W worth of heat, nor is what brand of amp you use to make that power.
  21. I wouldn't click on facebook for a free level 6. Good luck to all though. If you're going to participate in that fuckery you might as well try to win something out of it.
  22. OK, here's a tip, the developers of these games rush them to market so that they can cash in for Christmas. The game is likely incomplete and buggy. Fixes may or may not come along over the next year. Really these days you have to realize if you're buying a video game in the first few months after it's released you're basically paying 70$ to test the beta version.
  23. My guess is that will depend on how many motors are ever made that need that much clearance, and whether 12" spiders and other proprietary parts will still be available at such a date. Of course you must realize that this is going to be a very niche market thing, that lion's share of the overall car audio market would think SA series is overkill.... I'll be most interested to see if the extreme segment of the market will actually be willing to shell out the money to pay for all of the materials, R&D, AND the extra cost of every part involved with an actual working unit that's taking advantage of the limits of that size frame..... if not, he can chalk it up to advertizing expense and have just a super Billy-bad-ass sub just for the sake of saying they have a super bad ass sub to get people talking about the brand. The popularity of the 12 spoke and Ti style frames is largely because they're so popular. Essentially they have become de-facto standardized among many companies. So really if this works out, in 15 years you won't need to "look for" this frame, everybody will be copying it. Props to Jacob for pushing the envelope with designs though.
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